Sleeper: Breguet 3237 Chronograph in White Gold

I abhor even mentioning the watch market predictions. Sapphire crystals do not double as crystal balls and even the dark arts of auction witchcraft can’t push valuations massively. At a push, I may hint that I consider vintage Movado to currently present very strong value. However, today I’ll make an exception. Right alongside Movado, in terms of massive modern value, lies the Jacques and Pierre Chaumet era Breguet revival.

The Chaumet brothers were hired to bring Breguet back to their former glory. One of the longest running and most historically significant manufactures of all time (many use a design formally as a Breguet hairspring, Abraham Breguet invented it), Breguet was to be made the high-end name in Switzerland once again by investors. The brothers hired a young Daniel Roth as master watchmaker to oversee their effort. Roth and François Bodet (brand director) worked with the brothers to create a series of incredible, truly high-end pieces which have been overlooked for some time.

This 3237 was one of the first pieces to be born of this new team. A very classically designed Lemania 2310 ébauche seems a very appropriate place to begin in retrospect. If a Speedmaster is this the jeans and tee 2310, this is the tailored suit (badly thought out yoga pants and evening dress analogies apply equally). The movement is hand finished to spectacular standard. It is a 21-jewel, straight line lever with a swan neck regulator. The hairspring is, of course, a self-compensating Breguet. The chronograph was cased in yellow, rose, and white gold. The dial is a classic Clous de Paris finish with Breguet hands and (strangely) Roman numerals printed. All were sold within the first couple years of the brand’s reform. Production was not limited but there are not many of these about. Each was numbered (a traditional Breguet thing) at 6 on the dial.

This example is spectacular shape. It’s gently worn, with surface wear and no polishing. All markings are crisp and the movement is perfect. It has been recently serviced and comes with a guarantee booklet and original case. For what it’s worth, if I had the opportunity, I’d opt for the stealth of white over a yellow or rose gold. Its discreet demenour belies the serious engine beneath. This is a lovely example of a rare and still undervalued find. If sports steel is considered a saturated market, here’s your antidote.

Find this 3237 here from Watch Brothers London for 17150 GBP.