Early Urban Jürgensen can easily go unnoticed, but really shouldn't. This, I suspect, because the brand has one of the most convoluted and difficult-to-follow histories of any. Here’s what’s relevant to this, their 90s Reference 1. The storied Danish pocket watch brand was acquired by a Peter Baumberger, an enterprising...

In 1983, Vacheron Constantin announced to the world their intentions to return to traditional, complicated mechanical watchmaking in the wake of the quartz crisis with the ref. 43031 Perpetual Calendar. Switzerland had been decimated, with watch industry employment falling from 90,000 to 28,000 and the number of dedicated watchmakers employed...

If I were Günter Blümlein and someone suggested that they were going to revise the Lange 1 by adding a tourbillon, I'd tell them to zieh leine and stop being obtuse. You can't improve upon the Lange 1, surely? Well, if time has taught us anything, it's to trust the slow...

Calling Simon Brette one to watch is like calling Joe Satriani a promising guitarist. Sure, but we’re kind of past that. And this is the first time that one is coming to auction. Brette is the conductor of an orchestra of many artists, each quite adept at their craft. The...

We’ve all gotten used to wild Laurent Ferrier Grand Sport Tourbillons, FPJ Sport Rattrapantes, or even RMs today, they’re all over. But this was the first time high complication met sporting ambition. It is impossible to overstate the significance of reference 5554, the Royal Oak QP, first debuted in 1984....

As if a TN Tourbillon Souverain weren’t special enough, François-Paul went and made 11 of these in 2019 and 2020. Two .45mm thin pieces of ruby heart are mounted on a rhodium-brass dial here, set against a 50% grey ruthenium inner dials. Stone dials are not new for FP Journe....