This dial is vintage charm personified, from a maison we don't get to cover very often. Originally silver in tone, the 80 year life it has lived has transformed this non-luminous dial to an even copper-salmon. And it's signed Ulysse Nardin Locle Suisse, which brings with it a history of marine chronometry, observatory trials, and some of the most handsome chronographs that fly well under even most enthusiast's radar.
Despite always being a bit alternative, Ulysse Nardin have been quietly making very exceptional watches in Le Locle since 1846. Their mid-century chronographs and calatravas are few and far between, but often exceptional. Many of their design elements were influenced by Patek Philippe, Vacheron, and the classics. Phillips recently auctioned a sector pulsations Valjoux 23 Ulysse Nardin and previously have offered a few Valjoux 72 Ulysse Nardins. They've never pulled in top sums but have always been lots I've quietly admired from a distance. These mid-century UN chronographs are the sort of watches only ever bought for the love of that watch; no marketing, hype, or even celebrity association. Handling this example has shown me I should've been bidding.
The case is 36mm and sports a very modern lug for the 40s, with a large facet and downturn. Inside beats a Valjoux 23, with a 30 minute counter and tachymetre. But the details are what make this example: the blued steel hands all over, a very rounded onion crown, and 3-minute subdivision. It's classic and casual all at the same time. Mostly though, this watch is a testament to original unrestored dials. You don’t see them often, but you never seen them like this.
