01.0040.418 Zenith El Primero Espada Sub Sea Moonphase


Everyone knows the 3019 El Primero story. But, after, not everyone paid attention to just how far Zenith pushed the boundaries of what an El Primero could be. If one needed convincing that the El Primero is not only one of the longest lived chronograph lines, but also one of the most diverse, interesting, and…

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Mother of Pearl Dial 217QRS Voutilainen Retrograde Date


Only 30 217QRS, Karis’ Retrograde Date, have ever be made, in an even split of platinum, white gold and rose gold. But this? This is the very last one produced, 30. And the material combination here is something outrageous: teal mother of pearl dial, green guilloché hour track, and white gold case. It’s no surprise…

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Birchwood Dial 19018 Rolex Oysterquartz Day-Date


I know it says Rolex on the dial, but in every other way this is the anti-Rolex. It’s got a battery. There’s an integrated bracelet. The dial is not silver, not stone, but wood. It’s a Day-Date, but not as you know it. Everyone has an off day every now and again, but Rolex had…

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Fuerza Aérea del Perú (FAP) 2913-8 Omega Seamaster 300


FAP. Three little engraved letters with multitudes of meaning to just a few people. The best sort of watches, I’ve always said, are those that don’t shout for the attention they garner. But a Fuerza Aérea del Perú (Peruvian Air Force) Seamaster 300 takes that notion a bit further. You wouldn’t even know unless someone…

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Beyer Rattrapante Moonphase


This charming Beyer has a remarkable ability to delight just about everyone, even the most jaded collectors who’ve seen it all. Beyer is the watch person’s signature, found on everything from Rolex to Patek, and longest continuously running watch boutique in the world. But it was Theodore Beyer who built a personal collection which is…

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885103/01 ‘Evil Nina’ Universal Genève Compax


A few evenings ago, I popped round a cocktail bar I quite like here called Death&Co. It’s trendy. The sort where the bartender will give you a disapproving scowl if you order a scotch neat, as I always do, instead of the ‘Disco Kitten’ which includes chiles and a sprig of thyme, towering out of…

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3350 Breguet Tourbillon in Yellow Gold


The tourbillon makes no sense in the modern context. It’s designed to counteract the pull of gravity, down, on a balance. In a pocket watch, that’s great, because it’s always vertical. But in wristwatches, well, it’s about as useful as a chocolate teapot. Nonetheless, a rotating tourbillon cage does provide quite the visual drama and…

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Scott Carpenter’s 145.022-69 BA Omega Speedmaster


It was bound to happen eventually, we have a third million-dollar Speedmaster on the market. There was the somewhat erroneous 3.4M tropical 2915-1 result from Phillips. Then, perhaps more understandably, Wally Schirra’s 145.022BA hammered at 1.9M from RR. Now, another actual astronaut’s personal watch. It’s not a coincidence Carpenter’s is the same gold reference and…

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Tropical Meters First 5513 Rolex Submariner


Like Smokey Robinson & The Miracles, wabi-sabi has a hold on me. I think what appeals to me so strongly in a tropical dial is that it’s a massive middle finger to the idea of putting a watch in a safe and waiting for appreciation. This is appreciation through love, which to my sensibility is…

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25668PT Audemars Piguet Quantième Perpétual Openwork


The 90s are in. I’m not a judge of fashion, or indeed style. But I did hear someone say hella in my grocery store self-checkout last week and thought I’d entered some Doctor Who time-based joke. But I hadn’t. Nowhere is this more true than watches, where the 90s and early 2000s are just entering…

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