Archive for September 2022
‘Dirty Dozen’ British Army Issued Grana WWW
The Dirty Dozen is the title of 1967 film, which I have never seen, in which 12 fictional soldiers had some misadventures in WW2. But I have seen all the watches 12 watches lovingly nicknamed after this movie, the watches which actually served in WW2. This dozen are a group of field watches built by…
Read More‘Tasti Tondi’ Patek Philippe 1463
Chronograph pushers don’t get better. The 1463 was Patek’s first water resistant chronograph, succeeding the previous and iconic 530 chronograph in 1940. The improvements were characterized by a larger, modern case, rounded pushers, and a screw-down back. Some call this Patek’s first ‘sports’ watch, though it is a bit of a stretch. That case was…
Read MoreTropical 25686ST ‘Yves Klein’ Audemars Piguet Royal Oak QP
There are some watches so attractive that I feel something adjacent to physical pain at the fact that they will never be in my watch roll. Usually, they are highly unique: things like a Frodsham Double Impulse, a ‘Vieux Panier’ Vacheron 43031, royal blue dial E855 Memovox, . . .the list is endless. However, sometimes…
Read More76100 ‘Snowcone’ Tudor Submariner
Neo-vintage is not just collectable in Patek, VC, or AP; the era has more practical offerings as well. One, largely unsung, is the transitional 76100 Tudor sub. The reference was in production for just a few years in the mid-to-late 80s, but the 94110 ‘Snowflake’ of the same period stole majority limelight. That’s just a…
Read MoreMk2 A386 Zenith El Primero
‘The want’ is very strong with vintage Zenith. As a blanket term, ‘vintage Zenith’ covers so much: the original covergirl, G381, A277, Moonphase Calibre 3019 PHF Prototype, I could go on. In that list most definitely lies the A386. Its design is attractive, the contrasted overlapping big-eye subs uniquely lovely. The automatic cal 3019 is…
Read MoreValue Prop: 20217/5 Universal Genève Polerouter
Of the last decade, Universal’s Polerouter has slowly shifted from being a niche enthusiast’s micro-rotor to a foundational reference of attainable watch collecting. No one will argue that this is not deserved; the Genta-designed aesthetic is graceful as they come. However, that shift has also seen values skyrocket, as with everything. The very earliest Polerouters,…
Read MoreGilt 5513 Rolex Submariner
A true gilt dial just hits different. See, there is no one perfect 5513 dial; there are some less common such as the ‘Bart Simpson’, some more common such as the latter productions with white gold surrounds, some common yet gorgeous such as Maxi dials, some a bit bizarre such as 80s Spider dials, and…
Read More885103/02 ‘Nina Rindt’ Universal Genève Compax
In the pantheon of Universal Genève, three stand above the rest: they are the Big Eye, the Clapton, and this: Nina Rindt. Of all Compax chronographs, this humble Valjoux 72 is almost certainly the most desirable. Surprisingly rare, beautiful in detail, and with a well-photographed tragic love story of a history. The Nina represents an…
Read MoreFP Journe Chronomètre Bleu Byblos
This is a rare and eccentric showing of playfulness from Mr Journe, not likely to be repeated. Like much of Journe’s work, there is a story behind the visually striking watchmaking on display. This partially openworked dial is not executed in a remotely traditional way. In addition, it is one of just a few watches…
Read More‘Solid Caseback’ 101.001 A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1
This is really, really not just any yellow gold Lange 1. The 101.001 is the very first Lange 1 ever made. While the exterior is similar at a glance, the back is not. Lange 1s with a solid gold caseback hail from very early production, as it was customary then at Lange to only fit…
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