Vingt-8, Pièce Unique, White Gold

This is a Pièce Unique Vingt-8, one of the last made with an Observatoire dial configuration. The dial defines this unique example, white with three distinct sections of hand-turned guilloche. It features clous de Paris hobnail on the outer numeral track, a wave motif in the central sector, and a basket-weave panier for petite seconds. More notably, the numeral four has been executed in rose gold while all other applied numerals are in white gold—as this number held particular significance to its original owner. It is Observatoire dial architecture cased as a Vingt-8—a charming transitional point in Voutilainen’s production. 

The Observatoire was Voutilainen’s start in 2007, a watch which won the men's watch prize at that year's GPHG. Observatoires utilized Peseux 260 ébauches—an observatory chronometer calibre made in small numbers for the Neuchâtel and Geneva competitions, never sold commercially. Voutilainen did not simply restore them: balance, hairspring and escapement of his own, shock protection a competition movement never needed, timing screws in platinum. Fewer than 50 were finished before supply and model ran out in 2011. 

The Vingt-8 succeeded the Observatoire in 2008 with calibre 28, Voutilainen’s first in-house serial movement. The architecture is 260-influenced, but the escapement is distinct: direct impulse through two escape wheels, approximately 30 percent more efficient than a Swiss lever, driving a 13.6mm free-sprung balance at 18,000 VPH with a Phillips overcoil and interior Grossmann curve. German silver bridges, 65 hours from one barrel. The case debuted at 39mm with individually soldered teardrop lugs and a convex bezel. 

The two models overlapped in production and philosophy. Both share a watchmaker and vocabulary, but are separated by the development of the calibre inside. The Vingt-8 holds a significant place in history but did not begin his brand. This example has sampled the best of each model: early layout, but with the movement that spawned true independence from ébauches. With output near 50 to 70 watches a year and every dial turned individually on a rose engine, configurations do not repeat. A pink gold ‘IV’ amongst white gold numerals is a fingerprint of just one watch. While that numeral’s significance is now up to interpretation, it is absolutely unrepeatable. 

This Vingt-8 presents in excellent overall condition. Its case sports only light signs of careful wearing with not significant marks. The dial is flawless with no fault. Its Calibre 28 is running well in specification. The German silver bridges have begun to develop small areas of patina in limited sections, such as in-between the balance and applied plaque, or edges of bridges. It comes with its complete set, including a spare strap.

This example is modelled on an average-sized 7-inch wrist.