Tortue Monopoussoir, Privé, Platinum

One of the oldest, most storied shapes Cartier has ever created made a return to form last year. The Tortue case was first made in 1912, only second oldest to the Santos and five years prior to the Tank. Since then, Tortue (meaning Turtle in French) releases have been far and few between in all variants, never in the main catalogue. This is the Privé collection Tortue Monopoussoir, an immensely elegant chronograph made in 200 numbered examples in platinum. 

The Tortue Monopoussoir builds on a legacy that began 1928, when the first Cartier wristwatch chronograph was made in a Tortue case. By 1929, there were at least eight known Tortue Monopoussoirs, but only one in platinum. Following, in 1998’s CPCP era, Cartier brought in THA to bring back the Tortue Monopoussoir in a very small production. This is the third release of the Tortue Monopoussoir which leans closer to the vintage release than ever before. This Privé nods to the original vintage case, 34.9mm in diameter with 43mm of length including lugs (it wears like 35.5). The measurement that is most impressive, however, is vertical, just 10.2mm thin. Cartier prioritized thinness over chronometry or reserve, which, for this shape, makes the watch stand out amongst peers. It is one of true very thin contemporary watches of any manufacture. The design is respectful, but updated. 

Cartier were able to keep this case beautifully proportioned by introducing, their own vertically developed chronograph calibre. Calibre 1928 is now shaped to this case, developed in partnership with Le Cercle des Horlogers. A column-wheel with horizontal clutch for aesthetic considerations, the primary focus was maintaining a 4.3mm thinness. Yet, the calibre features curved Côtes de Genève, traditional beveling, brushed levers, black polished screw heads, and an attractive architecture. 

The dial of this Tortue Monopoussoir holds true to 1928 cues with a railroad chronograph track, applied rhodium Roman numerals, and blued steel Breguet or Pomme hands (which hark back to the original). The ‘secret’ signature at 7 complements a Swiss Made straddling 6. Its octagonal crown harks back to 1980s, with a red cabochon indicating a modern limited platinum release.

This Privé wisely reminisces over the important points we adore from prior generations which were, until 2024, largely lost. Thought the CPCP Monopoussoir had become an auction darling, the case and design had taken a substantially different aesthetic than the 1928 chronograph. The Privé release is a simple, humble, and well-executed modern chronograph that can recall a deep history in a way that few modern peers contend with. The Tortue Monopoussoir is whimsical but refined, a contemporary chronograph (mechanically) that impresses the purity of its original vintage design using modern manufacturing and finishing techniques. This Monopoussoir is a timeless and respectful release that perfectly references the deep history of what is surely the Tortue's ultimate execution.

This Privé Tortue presents in excellent overall condition. Its case shows only extremely light signs of ever having been worn. The factory strap is hardly bent. It comes with its full set.

This example is modelled on an average-sized 7-inch wrist.