Tank Louis, NSO, Platinum

This is a NSO Tank Louis, one of very few ever made with a salmon dial – and most certainly the most traditional you will ever find. With Breguet handset, minimal dial, and platinum case, this example did not stray far from established vintage Cartier design cues. The Cartier Tank has become immediately recognizable even beyond the watch collecting community. The most prominent of the designs has been the Tank Louis, its success demonstrated by the relatively few changes over its century-long lifespan. Numerous special editions have added flourishes such as guilloché dials, dual time displays, hand worked movements, or on the rare occasion a salmon dial. However, this Tank Louis stays remarkably true to the model’s traditional aesthetics for a custom order. Though a bespoke project, this example was not produced to make a loud statement but to pay tribute to the enduring aesthetics of Cartier’s most prominent design of all time.  

The Tank Louis, released in 1922, provided refinements to the Tank Normale design that led it to significantly greater prominence. The Normale’s somewhat brutish flat brancards with squared edges were replaced with rounded ones and a rectangular rather than square dial, simple modifications providing a more appealing and elegant aesthetic. The watches were produced in precious metals only, typically adorned with a blue sapphire cabochon on the crown. Traditional Tank Louis dials feature Roman numerals with chemin de fer (railway) minutes track and blued steel sword hands. The design was so successful that it has become synonymous with the brand. Numerous special editions have been produced but the design has remained relatively unaltered for over a century. It is immediately recognizable and widely adored well beyond watch collecting circles.

This example was produced in 2023 as a part of Cartier’s New Special Order (NSO) program which created bespoke watches for their top clients. Its salmon dial, platinum case, and red cabochon immediately catch the eye. Salmon dial Tank Louis have been produced previously in limited runs. The 75 piece limited edition ref. 1601 featured a salmon guilloché dial with ‘Louis Cartier’ text replacing the minute track, an avante garde dial housed within the classic Tank Louis case. However, this NSO example is executed with much more restraint. Its aesthetics are relatively pure, no flourishes, just classic Tank Louis aesthetics. The Roman Numerals and chemin de fer minute track are the sole printing on the dial. Blued steel Breguet hands provide lovely contrast with the salmon tone, a subtle nod to those found on some early pre-1940s examples before sword hands became standard. 

This NSO Tank Louis is incredibly respectful of the model’s lineage. Nearly each design element is true to vintage Tank Louis, the true-salmon tone of the dial its only deviation. The salmon dial and platinum case are a rare and beautiful combination made even more so by the addition of Breguet hands. This example is a celebration of the Tank Louis through deliberate material and color selection, which highlight the classic design elements, along with a handset primarily seen on pre-1940s examples. 

This NSO Tank Louis presents in excellent condition. Its case shows some light hairline scratches consistent with occasional careful wearing. The dial and hands show no patina or wear.  Its caseback still features stickers original from the manufacturer. The watch is running well within specification on our timing equipment. It comes with its full set including original box and papers, and original platinum pin buckle

This example is modelled on an average-sized 7-inch wrist.