LUC XPS 1860 for Hodinkee, White Gold

In 1997, Chopard pursued a strategy no other brand dared. They found a talented watchmaker, gave him a blank check, gave him ample time, and told him to develop the world’s greatest time-only calibre. The 16/1860/1 resulted, a very refined and technically impressive three-hander devised by Michel Parmigiani. This placed the brand in the highest regard amongst collectors and manufactures alike. In 2024, Hodinkee participated in their first collaboration with the brand, releasing a limited edition of just 25 pieces of the now popular 1860 under their ‘XPS’ or extra thin line.  

Its 40mm white gold case is just 7.7mm thin, .3mm thinner than the original. Its dial was manufactured by Metalem, which Chopard has acquired since the originals, and features a unique guilloché pattern mirrored on the officer caseback. Depressing the button at the center of the crown opens the hinged caseback and allows viewing of the calibre LUC 96.01-L. The dial’s white gold applied wedge indices and unique Dauphine-esque hands  that reflect light from any angle. The case utilizes three-piece construction with alternating finishes, the midcase has been brushed which provides a contrast the original did not. Its unique color is a dark hunter green with subtle aqua tones that emerge in direct sunlight. 

A direct descendent of the famed calibre L96.1, its calibre 96.01-L remains as beautiful and impressive as the micro-rotor architecture was in the original. Clearly both accuracy and finishing standards were highly prioritized as demonstrated by the combination of COSC certification and Geneva Seal demonstrating. It boasts dual stacked mainspring barrels, swan neck regulator,  65-hour reserve, beautiful finishing, and a contrasting 22k gold micro-rotor mass. 

This Hodinkee limited edition sports unique features that respectfully nod to and build upon the most significant watch produced by modern Chopard. The original 1860 was the start of a new era for Chopard, redefining the brand as a capable in-house movement manufacturer. The 1860 XPS for Hodinkee is the intersection of one of the most influential watches from Chopard and arguably the most influential watch media brand of all time, and in an utterly gorgeous specification.

This 1860 presents in great overall condition. The case and bezel bear light signs of wear with only a few heavier scratches. Its calibre is running well within specification on our timing equipment. The watch comes with its full set.

This example is modelled on an average-sized 7-inch wrist.