96065, Tank Louis Extra Plate, 'Pre-CPCP', Yellow Gold

Just before the launch of CPCP, the late 1980s brought to the Tank Louis Extra Plate (Extra-Flat) a guilloché Swiss dial—a beginning of their return to traditional watchmaking in the mechanical Tank. This run lasted until the introduction of the CPCP Tank Louis. The late 1980s and early 1990s, just a handful were ordered with Cartier bracelets. This Grain de Riz bracelet is a true rarity, and does wonders to make the classic Tank Louis shape even more refined.

The 96065 succeeded the 1970s ref. 78086, updating not only the dial but the prior ETA calibre to a Frederic Piguet calibre 96, a 21 ébauche which was the thinnest manual calibre on the market at the time. This allowed the case to be even thinner, leading to one of the most elegant 23x30mm solid yellow gold Tank Louis cases made. Importantly, these were also the last variants of the Tank Louis made before Richemonte acquired its controlling stake in 1993. 

The bracelet was a special order option in the 1990s, with a RRP only just slightly less watch itself at the time. Interestingly, the manufacturing technique appears to be quite handmade, as there is variance between the rows, yet you’d have to look quite closely to observe that. End links fit very snug with the case, almost providing the illusion of integration. The clasp is concealed and signed Cartier. 

The 96065 is a quite charming transitional Tank, incorporating some of the better hallmarks of the CPCP direction like the guilloché dial, but with older style case construction and vintage nods like this beautiful bracelet. And this one even retains its complete set, which one rarely sees these days. 

This 96065 present in excellent overall condtion. The case hallmarks are deep and well-preserved, with full barncards and straight lug holes. Its dial is excellent and only showing very light signs of patina. The calibre 96 is running well in specification on our timing equipment.

Please note this bracelet has no removable links and will fit roughly from 6.6" wrists as is. Smaller sizes may be possible by jeweler cutting, larger sizes may be possible if Cartier will make links.

This watch is modelled on a smaller than average sized 6.4 inch woman's wrist