25881OR, John Shaeffer Star Wheel Minute Repeater, Pink Gold

In 1995, Audemars Piguet created one of their most ambitious and experimental minute repeaters ever. Cased in a historic shape, the traditional minute repeater was squeezed down to a 34mm proportion, then integrated with the most daring time display any manufacture had on market at the time. This is the John Shaeffer Star Wheel Minute Repeater, a watch which captures in full gamut the audacity and technical ability of Le Brassus—almost independent in spirit yet made with fully traditional Swiss methods. This is 1 of just 7 ref. 25881 made in pink gold, a reminder of the daring spirit Audemars Piguet used to embody. 

In 1923, Audemars Piguet created a piece unique minute repeater for the then vice-chairman of the Allied Chemical and Dye Corporation in a uniquely art deco cushion shape (which he convinced AP to later update with letters of his name in place of numerals). In 1995, Audemars Piguet debuted a small collection in the same case shape, named after its originator. 

The contemporary John Shaeffer case was penned by Jacqueline Dimier, one of the first female designers in the industry. As one might expect of a collection whose namesake was a minute repeater, the range leaned heavily into complication. The core of the collection was the minute repeater, although time-only and jump hour examples without the repeater side exist. The Shaeffer collection only survived two years, due to lagging sales. Only 208 John Shaeffer minute repeaters were made, under the following models: Minute Repeater (ref. 25760) in 48 examples, Skeleton Minute Repeater (ref. 25761) in 45 examples, Star Wheel Repeater Closed Dial (ref. 25797) in 12 examples, Jump Hour Minute Repeater Closed Dial (ref. 25798) in 30 examples, QP Minute Repeater (ref. 25835) in 15 examples, Jump Hour Repeater Open Dial (ref. 25839) in 19 examples, this Star Wheel Repeater Open Dial (ref. 25881) in 17 examples, and a updated dial Minute Repeater (ref. 25882) in 21 examples. 

This ref. 25881 Star Wheel Minute Repeater was made in just 3 yellow gold examples, 7 pink gold examples, and 7 platinum examples. Each case is individually numbered. Its case is modest and tight, with surprising 9mm thinness. The dial is frosted gently, a detail not often captured but very obvious in person. This snowy-silver backdrop accentuates the pink gold central carousel and black numerals in high legibility. 

Calibre 2867 development was undertaken by the Skunkworks of Renaud et Papi, resulting in one of the most compact architectures the complication has appeared in. It is executed in a finger-bridge style, with excellent striping and anglage, as well as black-polished steel for the excapement bridge cap and hammers. Gongs run the perimeter of the caseback, with a surprisingly robust sound for their compact propotion. The pink gold case and opening allow exceptional acoustics for the gongs, with a very distinct tone to the repeater.

The John Shaeffer collection is a bright and brief light in the daring 1990s attitude of Audemars Piguet. Well ahead of its time in technical advancement and proportions, it embodies the spirit of old AP: discreet, exceptional, audacious, and the opposite of mass-produced. 

This 25881OR is in exceptional overall condition. The case is quite sharp with excellent edges and preserved brushing. Caseback engravings are sharp and deep. Its calibre 2867 is running well in specification on our timing equipment. All minute repeater functions are operating perfectly.

This example is modelled on an average-sized 7-inch wrist.