1675/8, GMT-Master, Yellow Gold

The 1675 is without question one of the great pillars of vintage sport Rolex. Initially a tool for Pan Am pilots to track multiple time zones, it was born in an era when travel was heavily romanticized and the jet set were a well-heeled few. During this period, air travel was an exciting and novel event, passengers dressed for the occasion. This golden age of air travel likely inspired the GMT-Master to embrace precious metal, one of the first sport Rolex models to do so. While gold was available in the 6542, the 1675/8 brought the gold case into the updated and more robust successor to that initial reference. 

The 1675 added the practicality of an aluminum bezel and presided over the transition of gilt to matte dials. The color of the aluminum bezels was not painted but galvanically applied. It was also the reference that popularized the GMT-Master, where the 6542 was far smaller production and more fragile. Throughout production of the 1675, there are roughly 18 known dial variants. The 1675 was offered in both gold and two-tone with either black or brown dial. ‘Nipple’ indices were common to all, a distinguishing feature to further separate precious metal sport Rolex from their steel counterparts. 

The gold 1675/8 variant was produced at considerably lower volume than the steel 1675. This 1978 example features a beautiful matte brown dial and bezel, well suited to the warmth of the gold case with gilt print. While most 1675/8 were optioned with the jubilee bracelet this has a rarer oyster bracelet, considered a more sporting alternative at the time. 

A Gold GMT-Master perfectly exemplifies the time period in which the GMT was conceived. In period, the 1675 was very much a tool watch, though one for the elite. A gold variant was the ultimate display of status and jet set lifestyle. It is this reputation from which the modern GMT borrows its prowess, though it has become more symbol than tool. However, in the years following since, vintage gold with light wear and patina has taken on a different character. By contrast to today’s precious metal GMT-Masters, these read as almost subtle. Fortunately, these early examples still survive: a yellow gold tool watch born of the golden era of air travel.

This 1675/8 presents in excellent overall condition consistent with its age. The case is full and sharp, including deep serial (1978) and reference engravings. There is light surface wear throughout. The aluminum bezel has some cosmetic scratches. The dial is comparably original and lovely with no visible damage. The tritium has aged to a light cream tone and is consistent under UV. The bezel is a rich and even brown. It comes on a 18k yellow gold rivet Oyster bracelet with similar level of light wear. The calibre 1575 has an unknown service history but is running well in spec. on our timing equipment.

This example is modelled on an average-sized 7-inch wrist.