Despite what you may imagine, I don’t like to—and hardly ever do—give any bright lines of vintage buying advice. That’s on you. However, I was having a debate recently with a friend as to which vintage manufacture is most heavily underrated by the market at the moment. He holds that vintage Vacheron has yet to inflate fully. I argued and still believe that Movado’s back catalogue currently holds the sweetest fruit. Movado’s quality of design, caliber, and execution back in their day rivaled some of the very best. Yet, despite a modicum of attention, models like their Tasti Tondi equivalent and Super Sub Sea have yet to reach a commensurate value. One other such reference is this 14950 Triple Calendar with huge classic elegance and modern dress appeal.
Movado wasn’t always consumable quartz. Francois Borgel didn’t make cases for just anyone: Patek, Vacheron, Mido, and Movado utilized them in period. In other words, their cases were for Swiss heavyweights. That’s one vote of confidence which matters. They also played a major role in developing Zenith’s El Primero automatic chronograph caliber. Their famous Ermeto pocket watch was retailed by both Cartier & Tiffany and is now a museum piece. There is little to scoff at. This Triple Calendar utilizes a hand-wound 475SC with a quickset function and relatively simple servicing. Its dial is an ivory-faded gem with a red pointer and alpha-ish hands. The crown is mildly recessed for practicality and its case comes in at just 33mm, tastefully undersized for today.
The example shown today sports a light wear. The case is worn, but not abused. It doesn’t seem to have been polished or at least not heavily. This is not a solid gold case, so polishing would be a treacherous business. The movement appears strong and is pictured with no visible corrosion. I’d love to wear this to some formal getup where men in dark suits are proud of their 5711s. This is discreet taste for real enthusiasts, don’t underestimate it. One day, it may achieve its fair value and be far out of common reach. For now, we can enjoy them in relative abundance.
Find this Triple Calendar here (google iTools translated link) from Eguchi Clothing, Japan for 3500 USD.