Girard Perregaux may not have the street cred of the holy trinity, but they should. GP were around and making beautiful metal in period with the big three. In my experience, amongst those who really know watches, there is universal respect for GP. Though today probably best known for the Laureato, there are myriad other lusty-worthy pieces in their back catalogue. One very covetable reference is this, the 5368 triple calendar.
Despite being in the room with Patek, Vacheron, and Audemars, GP’s production volumes were always much lower. This is largely why you don’t see many early pieces on offer. This Triple Calendar has a design more attractive than most. Like all great watches, it’s in the details: the numerals are an undersized, applied breguet style. There are gorgeous blue-steel feuille hands with a matched blue outer calendar track. The day and month apertures are symmetrical and petite. The proportions are simply spot on at 34mm with lovely elongated lugs. If you don’t get at least a little excited by this, I don’t know what you’re doing here.
This is a very well-preserved example. The steel case is thick and sharp with no visible polishing. Its dial has no spotting or coloration to note. The only thing worth mentioning here is a hairline fracture in the dial at the calendar track around four. Good restoration businesses would easily be able to remedy this. Unless it progesses, I wouldn’t sweat it. The watch is running correctly and shows little wear for its 60-some year history.
Find this 5368 here on Instagram from @celestograf by DM for 4800 USD.