Enicar, ever the forward-thinking watchmaker, saw the inherent redundancy in the word chronograph that others had missed. There is not a watch with a chronograph that measures something other than a function of time. Therefore, their family of chronographs were simply labelled ‘Graph’. I approve of this efficiency in language. The Graph family consisted of a Sherpa, Aqua, Super, and Jet model. The Sherpa was the explorers choice, the Aqua offered substantial water resistance, the Super oversized, and the Jet included a GMT function. This, the Jet, also included quite a brave bezel design. The additional complication and expressive design elements in the Jet Graph have seen it rise to the status of Enicar collector’s grail.
This watch may not be one of the most complicated I will feature here, utilizing a humble Valjoux 724 with its GMT module stacked. However, it is one of the most memorable. It is a testament to the longevity of brave and unique design. The bezel features black and steel 24-hour designation, with the 6 and 9 markers featuring that lovely 70s inverse-split. As an aside, I wonder to myself quietly if this could have served as inspiration for Omega’s 2234 Seamaster, but I suspect that question will go unanswered in perpetuity. The ralleye GMT hand works in combination with this bezel to denote a secondary time zone. The bright orange triangular seconds hand runs the chronograph. Its base dial is a reverse panda with square tritium markers. It all comes together in a EPSA compressor 40.5mm steel case. If you’re about mid-level & obscure vintage, this is your dream.
I’m featuring this Jet Graph today because: 1. I adore the reference and 2. This is an example for a museum. Most Jet Graphs were priced cheaply in period and worn frequently. These were not collector’s items for several decades. And yet, this Mark 3 transitional example looks spectacular. There is tiny surface wear distributed evenly across a sharp case. The ally bezel remains perfect, as does its tritium dial. Colors on these tend to fade and subs tend to rust. Not so here. I can’t really advise anyone to spend their money anywhere. I can only say that this is a seriously tempting bit of lighthearted vintage beauty.
Find this Jet Graph here from Avocado Vintage for 9000 EUR.