Value Prop: Turquoise Zenith Defy Diver 600

The recent reissue of Zenith’s very 70s Defy Diver has brought some interesting variants out of the woodwork. Recently, collector Greg Selch discussed on the big H that he owns over 40 distinct Defy Diver examples. Then a friend, @livingstonatnight, added to that ledger with multiple more unique Defy Divers configurations. Despite the reissue, attention, and gathering scholarship, original examples are still selling at what I believe can only be objectively considered a value.

Zenith’s Defy range of wristwatches were released in the 60s and attempted to be as durable as was possible. Zenith were early to approach watchmaking from the lens of vertical integration, and so used that advantage to leverage unique construction. 600 meter divers, antimagnetism, shock resistance, and hi-beat calibres all were borne to this collection. The range of designs this Defy Diver range encapsulates is bewildering and enchanting in equal measure, fertile ground for a collector’s mindset.

This particular Defy Diver oozes summer style with a lovely turquoise dial, deep honey lume plots, angular cutout indices, and 4:30 date (sorry about that one). Its 37.5mm case is harshly angular, with an offset crown that speaks to a more serious purpose than the 70s design would imply. Where uniqueness is concerned, this value proposition is hard to beat and unlikely to be repeated any time soon. All on a Gay Freres ladder bracelet that is peak style.

This example has been worn well and presents that life honestly. Its dial is still wholly representative of its original design, but has a few light spots of degradation and spotting. The luminous plots are remarkably together and remarkably deep in their honey tone. Its case had moderate surface wear throughout, but no signs of polish and strong edges. It comes from a small Italian retailer on Chrono24.

Find this Defy Diver here from On Watches Italy for 2150 USD.