Tiffany Dial 130 Patek Philippe Chronograph

A 130 with Breguet numerals is special enough. Adding Tiffany, particularly above the Patek Philippe line, is just showing off. This is an incredible variation on the 130, Patek Philippe’s first chronograph produced at meaningful scale. The 130 holds a special place in many collector’s hearts. It also happens to be one of their most diverse and longest-running production runs ever. The 130 was given space to evolve from 1934 until 1964, with changes going so far as to include different calibres entirely. Despite the long-lived production, overall numbers are still very low at an estimated 1500 examples, complication and chronographs were not de rigueur back then.

This was the auspicious start of the Stern family, who had recently bought Patek Philippe in 1932. The 130 started as a monopusher with Victorin Piguet ébauches, but quickly evolved to a manual Valjoux calibre 13-130 and two pushers. The lion’s share of case production came from the storied Emile Vichet, recognized by the number 9 inside a key stamped to the inner case back. The case built upon the 96, slightly larger at 33.5mm, still with a flat angled bezel. The design shares heavily with the 1526 and 1518, no bad thing. It is as slim, refined, and elegant as a chronograph can be. While the variety of dials one can find in 130 is staggering, a Breguet numeral Tiffany dial is right up there with sectors, pulsations, and gloss black as an all-time great.

The craziest part of the 130 is that it was made at all, born during The Great Depression and entering widespread production through World War II. This watch is from just after, America in the 1950s. Nothing ties a vintage Patek Philippe to America quite like a Tiffany signature. Christies have been able to catalogue 6 examples of Tiffany dial 130s. Interestingly, one through-line in all Tiffany 130s is a tachymetre scale in miles rather kilometers, a thoughtful touch. It would not look out of place on the PCH in an old DT Mangusta or in the Patek Philippe museum.

This example has much going for it. Interestingly, the movement shows a longhand signature but dial had updated to the short. But as for condition, you’re look at very likely only a very lightly, sympathetically cleaned dial. The accent is there. The fonts are consistent. Granted, I’m not louping it just looking from afar. The case has defined hallmarks but has seen a polish or two. Its calibre is incredible clean, beautifully preserved.