Salmon Dial 49005 Vacheron Constantin Perpetual Calendar Chronograph, Platinum

In 1992, Vacheron Constantin launched what they called the 7 marvels: 7 technically or artistically exceptional new efforts. One of them was this ref. 49005, Vacheron’s first Perpetual Calendar Chronograph and answer to the 3970. Except where only two known 3970s were made with salmon dials (one formerly owned by Eric Clapton) , there are thought to be 35 Vacheron 49005s in this bewitching salmon guilloché, all with platinum cases. It’s a bit of a beast, weighing in at 106 grams. And it’s way overlooked.

Allow me an aside. In my formative years, the three amigos of Top Gear invented a phrase which has since fallen by the wayside, but one I find quite instructive: ‘MFB’, short for mother-f*cking Bentley. This was a slightly more nuanced point than it seems at face value. At that point in time, Bentley had produced so many endless and boring variants of the Continental that enthusiasts were over it. But then the newest revamped one was actually surprisingly great: heavier, faster, more luxurious dead cow and amazon inside (not glorifying, just fact). To distinguish from what had come before, the term MFB was invented to separate Bentleys with a bar-brawling ‘MF’ attitude. This highly-complicated beast was the 1992 complete repudiation of quartz, and what I’d argue was the first MFVC. It’s an attitude that hasn’t been lost, still in the skeleton overseas QP, Mercator, and insane Berkely Grand Comp.

The calibre is an amalgamation of the Frederic Piguet calibre 1185 column-wheel chronograph with VC’s own calendar works. Yet, the movement was just 7.1mm thin at a total case height of 12mm. It also means you get the same beautifully detailed four-year leap indication at the 12 subdial as the 43031, but with stacked-hand calendar functions at 9 and stacked chronograph functions at 3. Even better, the moonphase disc is still the 43031’s solid lapis wheel with a mirror yellow gold moon, which is perfection. At 38 with classic stepped bezel and straight lugs, it’s a touch more masculine than the 3970’s 36mm but not all the way to a 5970’s 40mm: goldilocks. It’s one of the best dials and case proportions of any grand comp (with vintage sigma signatures to make the heart throb), with a solid platinum back for extra heft.

It is thought that approximately 800 were made in total. Of those, 500 are thought to be in pink gold and 300 are thought to be in platinum. The pink gold, you’ll find with white and a rarer black guilloché dial. Platinum were mostly white dial. However, this 1 of what are thought to be 35 examples made in salmon with vieux panier guilloché. This is a watch with immense presence, but also immense anonymity. It’s not a watch anyone will have seen before. I’ve described the first time someone sees one previously as like Cara Delevingne wearing sunglasses. You see the eyebrows, they look kind of familiar, but you’re not sure what you’re looking at. You just know it’s a 10 either way. The 49005 is like that, under the radar with an air of celebrity and grace. And even if no one else knows, you’ll know you have a MFVC.

This example appears beautifully preserved. Its dial shows no hints of damage or handstrike. The case is full with deep hallmarks. Even better, it was serviced last year and comes with an Extract of Archive. It comes from a well-regarded private collector in London.