S34 Roger Dubuis Sympathie ‘New Millenary’ Bi-Retrograde Calendar

For all the chatter around design-led watchmaking now, it’s easy to forget that Roger Dubuis went to great lengths in the 90s to create a shape quite unlike anything before or after. After branching out on his own, the Sympathie line was the first time Roger pushed the boundaries of what was possible, first in shape but mechanically also. This silhouette is every ounce as design led as, say, a Gilbert Albert Patek Philippe. Artful cases are not new, just making a resurgence. But the Sympathie is often left out of the conversation, which seems unjust.

If the Hommage series was about paying respects to Patek Philippe, where Roger worked before starting his brand, then the Sympathie was about paying respects to Longines, where Roger also worked. First launched in ’96, it was available in 34 and 37mm (which thanks to stout lugs wear more like 36 and 39mm, respectively). The models prior to Richemont acquisition have their case, bezel, crystal, and dial all follow the distinctly voluptuous case shape. Later examples were simplified with a circular dial, bezel, and crystal for ease of production; the shaped crystal had an insane failure rate. Taking a page from his time both in the Patek Philippe complications dept and in working with Jean-Marc Wiederrecht, Roger used the negative space in the Sympathie dial to create this Bi-Retrograde Calendar in the Sympathie. Prior to this, all calendars had used circular subdials. This was a bright flash of true creativity from Roger Dubuis, not just beautiful but never before done.

This specific S34 Bi-Retrograde comes from the very end Roger Dubuis’ years at the helm. For the new millenium in 1999, Roger made 28 examples of the Bi-Retrograde in white gold with a crest at 12 in the old, harder to make case shape. It’s a Geneva Seal Lemania ébauche with regulation done by Roger himself, to Besançon Observatory standard. Nothing about the Sympathie Calendars is usual or easy to make, but, interestingly, they are perfect examples of function following form. Challenging case orthodoxy began in the 50s, but it wasn’t just Toledano, Anoma, Berneron who brought it back today. Roger Dubuis has been challenging traditional form since the 90s, with fantastic watchmaking underneath making full use of that unique form. And this one will remind you of that every time you look to 12.

This example is in lovely condition, which makes sense as it’s coming out of Japan. The white gold case appears to have lovely full lugs, I haven’t seen the hallmarks but trust they’re sharp given the case look. It comes from a well-regarded retailer, available through Instagram.