Salmon Dial 247.X.10 Daniel Roth Chronograph

Of all watchmakers who were there at the very start of the independent movement, Daniel Roth may be the least understood and appreciated (relatively to his immense accomplishments). Having paved the way for an entire category, I can think of no early independent whose work is more deserving of increased attention. This is perhaps in part due to polarizing nature of his eponymous brand’s signature ellipsocurvex case, which is an acquired taste. In much the same way as the Nautilus shape is slow burn for many enthusiasts, so too is Roth’s 38mm double-ellipse. Once you’re sold on the shape, there lies endless magic.

Notably, Breguet’s famed Chaumet era was created by Mr. Roth. The Chaumet brothers took a gamble on this relatively young master watchmaker who had trained in the Vallée de Joux and worked for AP. It paid off and the 3237 chronograph Mr. Roth created marked a high point in Breguet history. Shortly after, in 1989, Roth created his own manufacture. Students of history will note that this date places him amongst the very first eponymous independents (think Dufour, Muller, Dubuis, Journe, and a few others in that time).

It is estimated that in the early years (before Bulgari increased volume) around 300-500 pieces left the manufacture yearly. This reference hails from the very end of that era, just after acquisition but when volumes were lower. While classical characteristic touches like the 38mm steel double-ellipse case and pinstripe guilloché dial pattern remain, this piece is made by its gorgeous salmon dial. Its (El Primero based) calibre 400 ébauche (produced after the rare Lemanias and Girard Perregaux-bases) is displayed proudly with an abundance of unique finishing. While not finished under the guidance of Roth himself, the calibre is well dressed here. The ask is also considerably less than a something early-nineties. All of Roth is in a groundswell these days, particularly in the East. It is not difficult to understand why.

This example shows even moderate surface wear across its case but no serious bashes. The dial is lovely and undamaged. It comes with a full set from a well-regarded retailer.

Find this 247.X.10 here from Watch4moi for 21000 USD.