5237 Breguet Classique Chronograph in WG

In 1970, the Chaumet brothers were hired to bring Breguet back to their former glory. One of the longest running and most historically significant manufactures of all time (ever heard of the Breguet hairspring or overcoil?), Breguet was to be made the high-end name in Switzerland once again by new investment. The brothers hired a young Daniel Roth as master watchmaker to oversee their effort. Roth and François Bodet (brand director) worked with the brothers to create a series of incredible, truly high-end pieces which have been overlooked for some time.

The 5237 was released in the 2000s as a continuation of Roth’s 3237 (amongst Roth’s best ever work, period). The only changes were small alterations to the dial and the more major shift from 36mm to 38mm. The base may be a two-register 2310 (2320 to be pedantic) chronograph, but it is elevated to an art form through classic touches such as an engine-turned dial made of solid gold, straight lugs, fluted-edge 38mm case, and roman numerals. It is very much of Patek 5070 DNA, but viewed through the lens of more traditional finishing. All were sold within the first couple years of the brand’s reform. Production was not limited but equally not massive as these were quite labor-intensive. Each was numbered in series (a traditional Breguet thing) at 6 on the dial.

That approach shines through in the back as well, where the venerable Lemania 2310 is finely finished entirely by hand. All angles are chamfered to an extreme level, Geneva striping is applied where appropriate, and screw heads have been brought to a mirror polish. Interestingly, while Patek’s 5070 also shares the same 2310 ébauche, Breguet actually owned Lemania in the period the 3237 was created. The case could be made that this watch is actually a more vertically cohesive package, though that really shouldn’t matter to any enthusiast in my opinion. If you are not convinced or in love at a glance, this is not the watch for you.

This example in white gold sports a case with only very light surface wear and no substantial bashes. Original matched buckle is included as is the full set. It comes from a well-regarded Belgian retailer.

Find this 5237 here from Mr Watchley for 29850 EUR.