1 of 100 SBGR091 Grand Seiko 62GS Historical Collection

The 1967 62GS really means something, both to enthusiasts of Grand Seiko and the manufacture, as Grand Seiko’s first-ever self-winding offering. In production for just two years, the 62GS defied trends in both case and movement architecture while fully realizing Taro Tanaka’s ‘Grammar of Design.’ 36mm, bezel-less, harsh facets with contrasting mirror polish, offset crown, and a dial as crisp as a fresh snowfall on Mt. Iwate (this is well before that would be used as marketing). It was only natural that Grand Seiko would commemorate their 55th anniversary with a 100-example run of this integral model: this SBGR091 reissue, executed in white gold no less.

Characteristically, Grand Seiko paid full attention to detail with this reissue. While many subsequent 62GS-cased releases have had the crown at three, the original located at four to advertise the fact that this need not be wound and make the crown less-obtrusive. The dial takes its eggshell tone from the original, but adds a modern blued steel seconds hand and diamond-cut indices. It also features the early Grand Seiko lion engraving on back, a lost bit of collector iconography. Size grew, but only by about 1mm. Weight is drastically increased as the full execution is white gold. The reissue was powered by the lauded 9S65, a no-nonsense 72-hour reserve auto capable of daily +5 to -3 seconds.

Yet, no one really talks about the SBGR091. This is, I suspect, as it hails from what I call the double-signed era. This nascent stage I define as after the birth of the modern Grand Seiko reference system, but before dials became signed with Grand Seiko alone at 12 in the SBGR305. This was pre-watch-instagram or full-swing Hodinkee, but post what we traditionally call neo-vintage. It is a timeframe many enthusiasts gloss over that is overflowing with hidden gems. An SBGR091 recently hammered at Phillips just over 40K USD. This result may be an n-of-1, but indicates a promising future for the collectability of this under-the-radar reference.

This example sports an excellent overall condition. The case has only the lightest of surface wear and full proportions. It has been sparsely worn since original purchase. The back sports light surface wear and the engravings remain deep and highly visible. It comes with both its original strap and a full set minus the instructions manual. It is offered to market for the first time from its original owner via a well-regarded retailer.

Find this SBGR091 here from Special Dial for ~22000 USD.