Mk3 A386 Zenith El Primero

Few chronographs don’t get the credit they deserve like the A386. Because I try to be a bit professional here once in a while, I threw the search terms ‘Rolex Daytona, Omega Speedmaster, Heuer Carrera, and Zenith El Primero’ into Google Trends to approximate the relative interest (specific vintage references don’t have enough volume). Over the last 5 years, the El Primero has been searched less than 1% of the volume of Daytona, 15% the volume of Speedmaster, and 27% the volume of Carrera. And yet this was objectively more innovative than any of the above models in the time where that mattered. It’s so good even Rolex cribbed the calibre 3019.

It also happens to be a complete sleeper to the general population. Watch people get it, no one else cares. Why do watch people care? This was the first watch to house a 3019, debut. I’ve jested previously that while three competitors were fiercely competing to develop the world’s first automatic chronograph, Zenith finished just behind first and then named it the ‘we did it first guys, promise.’ There’s a sliver of truth in that. The first auto chronograph is more a case of convergent evolution, where many manufactures were locked-in on the problem. Whoever you believe to have been first, there is no argument that Zenith’s approach was the most technically competent; a completely integrated 278 component, column wheel, 36000 vph, auto chronograph. That, make no mistake, was a technical masterclass.

But then there’s the design, which I believe is criminally undersold. Nothing is as recognizable across a room as the tricolor subdial. But look at the subtleties of its lug design. Compared to an Ed White’s straight lugs, this straight lug is a razor to its blob. There’s a chamfered edge which expands down the lug, radial top brushing, and a shark-nosed end, which gives the 38mm case momentum just sitting there. This is a perfect vintage chronograph. Although you see the A386’s influence across many other styles of Zenith chronograph, it is estimated around 2500 were produced in this original tricolor flavor (according to M. Rössler). And yet, they’re not insanely expensive. It is the choice of a collector who just loves watches and not peacocking to the masses. Viva El Primero.

This example is in stellar condition. It’s on on the GF ladder bracelet, strap only, which is the only thing worth noting. Otherwise the case is incredibly sharp with brutally well-defined edges. The dial is clear of damage or spotting and is carrying warm cream tritium. Its calibre was serviced last year and it comes with an extract from Zenith’s heritage dept. It comes from a well-regarded retailer