Linen Dial 1601/9 Rolex Datejust, White Gold

This is a rather exceptional 1601 Datejust, but don’t anyone tell it. It really thinks it’s an 1803 Day-Date. But it’s not just the bracelet, which is likely original to the watch. It’s the metal: this is white gold. Pair that rather unusual precious metal for a Datejust with this spectacular linen dial, and the result is one of the stealthiest (sorry, had to say it) symphony in 70s Rolex I’ve yet seen. Practically one ordered a Datejust this high up the catalogue the 70s. But I’m glad one did. Just study those indices, the bracelet, or handset. It’s . . .groovy.

In short, it’s one of the most unusual specifications seen on any Datejust. In 1970, ordering a 1601 in white gold put it right alongside the price of a Day-Date, which was precious metal anyway. Very few of Rolex’s customers went through with it. Mostly, white gold 1601 cases are seen with stone or wood dials. But once in a while a more ‘standard’ format was ordered precious, as is the case here. Interestingly, you had your pick of Jubilee, Oyster, or even President if you were ordering the best Datejust money could buy in the 70s and so many have really unique aesthetics. This is one of those rare examples where some madman in 1971 said ‘no, I don’t need the day, but I still want the most badass precious metal Rolex I can have, please.’ Rolex obliged.

Here, it’s a non-luminous linen dial with closed handset. More interesting for me is the shape of the white gold indices, which are faceted on four different angle planes on their upper surface. That’s not a usual spec. Linen dials were in production for decades, they’re not that uncommon in Datejust or Day-Dates. But this one is super unusual in the best way possible. If you comb through historic sales, you’ll find single digits of examples. So while this is an ordinary model, it’s really not an ordinary Rolex at all. It was an option to everyone which no one selected in period. Think of it like the optional BMW E38 7-Series fax machine. Is it functional? No. Do you want one and does it made the car way more cool to those who obsess over details today? Absolutely.

This example is a simple knockout on condition. The case is remarkably sharp, with great edges and on a what could be its original bracelet, though there’s no way to know for sure. The dial is lovely and likely to continue to age far better than most for the lack of tritium. It comes from a well-regarded Dutch retailer.