Jaeger LeCoultre Valjoux 72, Yellow Gold

This is a somewhat mysterious chronograph with a remarkable ability to charm just about everybody. It’s a LeCoultre V72 but, no, it’s not an E335 like the last one we featured. It’s not even a US market, as most were. The case is not the usual 14k, for US import fee-dodging in era. It’s 18k, with Swiss hallmarks for Charles Dubois & Cie (Yes, there are LeCoultre-only signed JLCs made for EU market too, though most were made to US export). Mid 1960s JLC chronographs are a super wide-ranging bunch. There are many variants, but not many examples out there. They’re all drastically distinct. This vertically brushed silver dial with reverse panda registers and an 18k case is as good as it gets.

Valjoux 72 JLCs seem to have started in the early 60s a not continued for very long. There are also UG-calibre variants, but we’re focusing on Valjoux here. There are no harsh cutoffs between models, and they only got reference numbers at the very end. Some of these have Cornes de Vache cases. Dials vary widely. Given serial numbers, there are probably just a few hundred made in gold and far fewer out there today. While there are 3-4 identifiable cases, it seems like nearly every one has a slightly varying dial. The whole appeal about these is that little is known and little is documented.

These are, though, very perfect chronographs. The cases are 35.5 or 36mm, you’ll even find examples that look like this with a texturized guilloche case. The lugs have a thick bevel and sterile bezel that’s almost a bit Geometer-like. But the real reward in studying the detail is the number of applied and luminous elements on the dial. The subdials are ringed in beveled gold. The signature is applied. Even the indices are brilliantly faceted in a way that’s almost a bit GS (sacrilege, I know). As these still trade hands well under Autavias, Speedmaster, or more recognizable, known quantities, they’re one of the great values still remaining.  It’s the sort of watch that makes you proud to be a nerdy enthusiast and rewards your efforts. One cannot simply scratch the surface of horology and find great value these days. But if you break out the shovels, things like this are waiting to meet you, like spending XJS money to get an Eagle E-Type.

This example is what a friend of mine likes to call un-fuck-with-able. It’s been called a safe queen and it is. There’s almost nothing to point at except light surface wear, the case almost certainly is not touched or restored. It’s like I’m making comments on a new watch. The dial and hand tritium are perfectly aged to cream, but there’s little to zero patina on the vast brushed silver expanse. I’m just in love. It comes from a well-regarded German retailer, pin buckle from JLC too.