H. Moser & Cie Pioneer in Green

I often the more archetypal, paired-back offerings from a house the more attractive options. This Pioneer, for example, is like a distilled essence of Moser. The Pioneer offers a classic Fumé dial with a contemporary case, crown, and hand design. No frills. Instead, Moser focussed on perfecting their craft. The smoked dial steals all your attention anyway.

Behind the green lies the hand-finished in house HMC200 caliber. To call it in-house is actually a bit of understatement, Moser even manufacture their own hairsprings. This is almost unheard of. The quality of finishing is bar none. Its balance beats at 21600 vph, a good bit slower than you might be used to. But this is not a high accuracy chronograph. That slow bleed of power allows for a three-day power reserve in what is a more classic movement design. And to finish it off, the rotor winds bi-directionally through a reversing gear.

What I really love about Moser, though, is that the brand has bar-none independent watchmaking credentials but also a sense of humor. The Swiss could use an annoying little brother to laugh and point at how ridiculous they are sometimes. CEO Edouard Meylan has been doing that masterfully during his time with the company. He occupies the highest level of trolling. I highly recommend listening to his interview with the fine Rikki & Rick over at Scottish Watches. It appears there is boundless creativity and very little limitation at Moser today. In my view, that’s a key function for independent watchmakers though often forgotten.

This example is offered by the highest of reputable retailers, Phillips. Aside from their mega-auctions, they keep a little-known retail inventory at their London location. As you would expect, it comes in flawless condition with a full set. But crucially the sum is not as extortionate as you might think.

Find this Pioneer Centre Seconds here from Phillips for 9950 GBP.