FP Journe Chronomètre Optimum in Rose Gold

The French are efficient to the same extent that Germans are famed for riding down the street on a bicycle with a baguette under one arm, chainsmoking and being rude to foreigners; which is to say they’re generally not efficient at all. Nonetheless, our man from Marseille had the idea in 1980 to take some of the best elements from his Chronomètre Souverain and Tourbillon in order to create a wristwatch totally optimized for mechanical efficiency and therefore accuracy. It’s not just high level watchmaking, it’s outright creativity as I define it: connecting the dots between various disciplines which haven’t yet been connected.

Journe started on this project in 2001 and it took a short ten years to develop fully, a real project of chronometry. From the Souverain, there are dual mainspring barrels like we’re used to, but for stable torque not length of power reserve. This then goes through a one-second constant force remontoir, borrowed from the tourbillon. In short, there’s an extra gear in the train that is wound in short spurts by the mainspring, which releases precisely the same amount of energy every second. A totally constant force to the escapement, not one which is weakened at lower power reserves. It’s even displayed through a tiny aperture in the dial. Interestingly, the remontoir was made in titanium for the mass reduction and greater accuracy. To my knowledge, it’s the first time a remontoire was made in titanium. This is all directed through an ‘EBHP’ escapement, which functions without any form of lubricant, optimized for stability and consistency in a very complex manner. For a time only watch, there’s a lot going on behind the scenes.

This is probably Journe’s most chronometrically-precise offering ever. It was introduced to the world fully completed in 2012 and has been collected essentially since introduction. The Optimum is not what Journe is most known for. The CB, early Tourbillons, and Resonance are his most famed works. Not one was made in brass movement, this is far after peak Journe collectability. But it is one of the most interesting, as it approaches the problem of high chronometry though simplicity rather than complication. And thanks to Mr. Jobs we all know that’s harder.

This example is in great shape. The case shows only the lightest signs of wear, no polish. Dial is perfect. It comes with a full set from a well-regarded London retailer.