Eastern Arabic Dial NSO Cartier Tank Asymetrique, Platinum

If the trend this year has been all about a push toward shaped or design-led cases, and it has been, it’s worth considering where that thought originated. Or, at least look at some early examples. While we were all fascinated with vintage tool watches through the 2010s, Cartier were still pushing the literal edges of form. This is a classic shape watch, although its roots are functional. It’s the Tank Asymetrique; it’s literally in the name. And this is an NSO, a special order one-off with an Eastern Arabic dial of wine red over champagne. While this is not the case for all NSO, it really works for me: almost as if it came from a retro-futurist Dubai in the late 70s or something.

In the 1920s and 30s, many brands made angled dials as drivers’ watches, intended to be read while the hands are on a steering wheel. In fact, this Tank shares more in common with a Vacheron Constantin 1921 American than the Bamboo. Originally known as the Tank Oblique then Parallélogramme before Asymetrique, it came to market in 1936 first. Since, like the Crash, it is one of those Cartier models which has never been a part of the main catalogue but released in special small production. It was made in 1996, 2006, and 2020. Except, that is, these special orders which we now are occasionally seeing come to market.

This one is platinum, champagne, and burgundy Eastern Arabic numerals in a symphony warm tones. Contrasted with the 2020 Privée release, this dial is considerably more restrained with just 4 numerals instead of 6 with intermediary divisions like we normally see. Additionally, the radial soleil dial leans into the 70s aspect of the champagne tone for an overall slightly vintage-leaning palette. And the tiny angled Swiss made in the corner is one of my favorite signatures. This is what Cartier does best: whimsical, thoughtful design with personality. And even though it feels as if there are almost as many NSO Cartiers as standard these days, I love these special unique variations on the classic Cartier theme. This is the very best of the old design-led guarde with historic weight on their side. Cartier are still breathing new life into nearly century-old shapes to great effect. While it remains to be seen how some of these newer designed cases will breathe with time, other shapes simply don’t age. This is the latter.

This Asymetrique presents in excellent overall condition, hardly ever worn by the looks of things. It comes with its full original kit from a well-regarded Malaysian retailer.