Akrivia AK-06

This is the first time an AK-06 has come to auction and that’s really rather significant. Akrivia and the brand’s founding star Rexhep Rexhepi have enjoyed a deserved stratospheric rise recently, underpinned by the massive wave of independent watchmaking interest but not because of it. The true cause centers around both Rexhep’s finely tuned eye for design and finishing, personable attitude, and humility. Despite having trained under Journe, his personality is actually something of an anti-FP. Coming from humble roots in Kosovo fleeing in wartime and landing in Switzerland, he started an apprenticeship and Patek and then worked for Journe. But he always wanted to make watches his own way and in 2012 began his own venture. Humility breeds excellence, and that much is clear in the creative masterclass we have all been treated to since. Even Dufour and Voutilainen laud his work.

The AK-06 is a watch which bridges the gap between Akrivia’s two collections, the more avant-garde AK and more classic (I always thought ironically named) Chronometre Contemporain. The movement stems from the CC, with many unique mechanisms moved front-side. It was the first time Rexhep had moved away from the tourbillon, and though is time-only includes a complex heart-shaped cam that allows the seconds to reset to zero when the crown is pulled out. The complication is an adaptation from minute repeater elements and marked the first time used in a time-only watch. All elements of this movement are canvas to Rexhep’s eye for beauty in architecture and finish, developed entirely by Akrivia with broad bombe anglage that requires immense hand skill. The dial is also its base plate, but dimpled by hand and, I imagine, patience. The heat-blued tension spring for the power reserve around 2 is a beautiful touch. All elements are thought through and created in the most artful way possible. All of this is classic watchmaking, seen through the eye of an ambitious and intelligent man with a view toward doing every detail a bit differently.

But the AK-06 and by extension Akrivia are equally famous for a different reason; no one can get one. Just 50 were made, 25 steel & 25 titanium. Prices would start around 90K USD, but they’ve all sold. And production for future projects is, also, largely all sold. This is the independent watchmaking problem. Doing things by hand with a small team means small production, and demand is outsized. When any has appeared at auction, the hammer is usually 7 figures. This is one of those rare elusive chances for a well-heeled ‘nobody’ to get one, so expect the same. They’re not watches for mortal enthusiasts anymore, but artworks expressing one man’s creative expression of classic Swiss watchmaking. Akrivia was named after an East Orthodox Church principle dictating strict obeyance of canonical law and does so with regard to Swiss technique, but whilst manifesting Rexhep’s personality beautifully.

This is a steel example, grey dial, and pretty much just lightly worn with its full set. It’s coming to auction from HDH, who are well-known in wine but trying a watch auction for the first time ever this month. It’s ways exciting to have a new entrant, but also possible outlet with less attention than a Phillips, etc. The result, I’m sure, will be spectacular. But in this case I’m fine with it. Fine art deserves appreciation from enthusiasts and the market alike.