812 AD IWC Aquatimer

While the 812 Aquatimer is ultimately a dive watch, IWC’s first, it is more importantly the most elegant and refined dial design to ever be cased with two crowns and a Piquerez Super Compressor case. In 1967, IWC decided to take on the Submariner with this. In typically teutonic fashion, the design was pure Bauhaus: form was to follow function. The 812 was never a vast commercial success, and production remained small. Over all 25 years of production, it is estimated than IWC made fewer than 2,000 examples. Of that, most the white with white bezel is one of the least seen variants.

The 812 began with the calibre 8541 from the Ingenieur with a Pellaton winding system, which uses a cam rather than direct gearing between the rotor and barrel; this not only isolates it from shock but is more mechanically efficient. The dial is designed purely for legbility. Its applied luminous markers are the same width as the extra-wide luminous baton hands, including a ‘paddle’ seconds hand. The rotating bezel is luminous through subdivisions of the first 15 minutes. This example comes from early in production when the IWC text was longhand without the later applied IWC logo above it, which looks mega. Unfortunately this example does appear to have been to IWC with service hands, but they’re decently matched and it’s still a cracking watch in summation. Just should be noted.

These days, the dive watch is very concretely associated with an external bezel. The 812 imagined a different blueprint and went about things in a very considered way, incorporating an entirely new and superior winding system. Despite its reserved and practical approach, it is a watch that somehow is overflowing with character and charm in modern times. IWC envisioned the 812 as a Submariner-killer. That didn’t really happen. Instead, it is today a very thoroughly thought through and beautiful dive watch which exists only in tiny numbers. A perfect dive watch equally for those who deeply know their IWC history or who have an eye for minimalist, utilitarian design.

I’ve already mentioned the hands, which are a bit obvious. Crowns were also replaced at service and the case is lightly polished. You can guess, it’s been recently serviced where, unfortunately, this is IWC standard protocol. It’s not a perfect example as a result, but still stronger than most. And the dial is a knockout. It is priced correctly and probably a great buy for someone who wants to truly use their 812 rather than preserve it. It comes with an Extract of Archive from a well-regarded Danish retailer.