43031 Vacheron Constantin Perpetual Calendar, Platinum

The 43031 is a QP made for posterity to enjoy. Shortly after the 5548, Vacheron brought back their take on the ultra-thin 920 QP, distinctly quirky and slightly more expressive than the AP. To be certain, it was not appreciated properly in period. Between AP’s 5548 and Patek’s 3940, the 43031 sold far, far fewer numbers. But it is no lesser watch. Everyone has remembered the 222 in the wake of the reissue, but the early QP remains silently appreciated by us, vintage lovers. In 1985, this model was crucial in helping Vacheron rebound and re-establish their prowess in the wake of the crisis. It is a celebration of complicated mechanical watchmaking and a testament to its permanence in Switzerland.

VC reworked a Dubois-Depraz calendar module so that the day and date are shown at three and nine with months plus leap year indication stacked at 12, something of a first for the display. This means that 12 subdial rotates a complete revolution every four years, the slowest moving thing since the Porsche 912. Also distinct, its moonphase disc was solid lapis. This effort counts for a lot in my book. It was made in two main series, the latter of which has a Maltese cross at 6. Platinum is considerably less produced than yellow gold here, which just adds to this example’s pull. There’s far more to learn in the nuance, such as transitional or guilloché dials, bracelets, skeletons, and diverse languages, but those are the broad strokes. The 36mm case than wears slightly stronger than the 5548 for is longer lugs and stepped bezel.

The JLC 920 ébauche (which this 1120 is) has been slowly leaving brand catalogues over the last decade in favor of the ability to sing of in-house production. That’s a bit of shame, it is the calibre that allowed the case proportions we’ve loved most over the past few decades. Its construction allowed thinness and complication to coincide in a really durable way, often with a Geneva Seal under a solid back. This is one of the best 920 QPs that’s ever been made, and it’s still well under 40K in platinum. You can get more elaborate in blue sub Skeleton 43032s, but the original recipe is just lovely as well. It’s peak JLC 920 during peak 920 years. This is the kind of watch we’re all going to be wishing we’d picked up a few decades from now.

This example sings, not just for the spec. The case is very sharp with great hallmarks. There’s light surface wear and nothing more than the tiniest ding at 6 as far as I can see.. It also has its full set, which you never see, including the pusher pin. The papers date to 1992, it’s kind of perfect. It comes from a well-regarded London retailer.