4300V Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar, Pink Gold

The Vacheron Constantin Perpetual Calendar has always been the unobvious choice. AP were first to both the post-quartz revolution QP and later integrating that QP with a sports case in the 25554 in 1983. They invented the category. Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin only brought perpetual calendars to their sports lines in 2018 & 2011 respectively, and almost begrudgingly at that. In fact, the first QP Overseas was a chronograph too, in 2011. The Overseas didn’t receive this standalone QP until 2016; this is a very recent addition to the catalogue by comparison. And that range has since been sidelined a bit for the 222 (will we ever see a 222 QP? A man can dream). As such, it doesn’t have the historic weight of a pre-leap year Royal Oak. It makes up for that in a 1.5mm thinner case, the urbane charm of a blue lacquer dial, and pink gold, all of which you do notice right away.

What you might not notice immediately is the leap year quadrant in the top subdial, which rotates through its full track once per four years, a carry-over from the OG 43031. In fact, it is the very same calibre 1120 QP here albeit updated, a Dubois-Depraz JLC 920 ébauche. AP and VC both have their own in-house production variations of this ébauche, one of the longest lived perpetual calendars. You also might not notice that it still carries a Geneva Seal. And you definitely won’t notice that the moonphase disc’s stars aren’t just random, they’re engraved then gilded in the shape of constellations.

This is a perpetual calendar sports watch with no baggage whatsoever, not really much hype, and a fabulously useful ability to quickly swap between bracelet and strap. The case is 41.5mm, which means already it’s not for everyone, but for those that can pull it off it’s a complicated pancake. Plus, it is only precious metal. None of this steel as luxury nonsense, gold is luxury as far as VC are concerned. I have to like that. Nine out of ten possible buyers will have picked the Royal Oak. Which means the 4300V is for people who just love a well-made object and eschew hype. I wonder how history will remember this effort and, perhaps even more pertinently, how the QP Overseas will evolve. For us who care, it’s the best integrated QP you never see in the wild.

This example is lightly worn and bear superficial signs of time on wrist. That’s all, its lovely. The bracelet is tight as you would expect, but should you choose to go full summer it has its extra straps in addition to its full set. It isn’t a particularly rare watch, but it absolutely lovely and worth considering if you’ve been laser-beam focused on an APQP.