3417 Patek Philippe Amagnetic

The 3417 Amagnetic is considered by many the most elegant tool watch ever made, a Calatrava-like peer which blurs the line between utilitarian purpose and the refinement of a formal dress watch. Well before the Nautilus, this was in its day the sole Patek Philippe reference to be made exclusively in steel (including its bracelet sister-reference 3418). From 1958 until 1968, it is now widely estimated that fewer than 500 examples were made of the 3417.

It is the 35mm steel Jean Vallon case that makes this aesthetic sing, just 10.5mm thin with a Faraday cage inside. The dial was manufactured by Stern Frères, with a playful ‘Amagnetic’ signature under 12, which has become regarded by collectors as one of the greatest-ever handwritten font designs from Patek Philippe. Not all 3417 dials feature this delight. Compared to other Calatravas, its sole art-deco Arabic 12 is an outlier, with longer indices and petite seconds than other Patek Philippes of the time also. Dials productions are divided into 4 main types. This is a late Type 1 with a slightly smaller petite seconds but the Amag signature and Patek logo printed. The most collected is the very early Type 0, with an engraved enamel signature, but they’re all desirable in great condition.

The 3417 was produced with two movements, which is usually how series are divided. The first two years, such as this example featured a calibre 12″-400 AM, where post-1960 all production featured a 27-AM 400. Critical points of the movement, such as the anchor and escape wheel, were made of solid gold to remain unaffected by magnetism. Similarly, its hairspring was made in Nivarox. Calibres were designed to withstand up to 450 oersteds. Compared to the Milgauss or even Geophysic, the 3417 seems altogether more considered. The quality of this calibre very much separates the 3417 from its contemporaries. The 3417 is the original Patek Philippe steel tool watch. While it does not pretend to be as sporting as others, that has become its strength all these years later.

This example has a fantastic case, likely not refinished. There is a small ding on the apex of the lower right lug, which should be noted. I see no hand strikes, misaligned indices, or dial issues at all. The hands are white gold and untarnished. It comes with Extract of Archives confirming production in 1962.