20218 Universal Genève Calatrava

When one contemplates all that is Universal Genève, sport watches almost always come to the fore. Things like the Compax series and Polerouters dominate their easily-recalled legacy. However, a part of Universal’s charm is the incredible depth that manufacture had achieved before folding. One forgotten reference was quite popular just before the Monodate yet seems perhaps most at home today in 2022: the 20218 ‘Waterproof’ Automatic.

The zeitgeist today is in the process of collective return to sanity both in terms of proportion and practical levels of complication, generally speaking. What more is needed? The level of quality on display in this three-hander is not to be taken lightly. Use of an applied logo, indices, oversized blank bezel, and screw construction all testament to the fact that UG really cared. Its dial has aged to a dark eggshell in its half century of life. While there is no fussy decorations about the bezel, its proportion is a bit disco-volante and beautiful in that respect. The steel case is just 35mm, complete with U-shield signed crown.

This example is lightly worn, but not abused. The highly polished case finish is factory, but shows scratches and light touches in high-wear areas. The lugs are still razor sharp at transitions, particularly around the dilled lugs, leading me to believe this may be factory. The dial features tritium plots which are fully gold, matched in the luminous handset. It comes as a naked watch from a well-regarded German retailer.

Find this 20218 here from Brevet Watches for 2490 EUR.