105.012-65 Omega Speedmaster

Not all Speedmasters are created equal. I don’t just say that because there’s a calibre 321 inside this 105.012, but because of condition (which is really everything in vintage). This example is fantastically sharp on its case, entirely correct, full set even, and sporting a dial that can only be described as pumpkin. It’s also impossible to overstate just how significant a 105.012 feels in the hand, compared with even a 321 from today or indeed any Speedmaster post 90s (once it became an Omega marketing powerhouse). These moon-era tools were very clearly the result of mission-oriented design thinking. Professional isn’t just a word on the dial. Just ask Buzz, only be sure to practice your muay thai first. This is watch for accomplishing hard things with, a particularly beautiful one.

In the long steady march of early Speedmaster, the 105.012 was the first time the Speedmaster took of the form of what we’d recognize today. The asymmetric crown guard, lyre lug, larger, what-we-call professional case began here (whether made by HF or CB). It was also the actual watch of Apollo 11, which Omega might mentioned once or twice since. Buzz wore his, Armstrong left it behind because the Bulova capsule clock failed. Importantly, it still has the calibre 321, Lemania ébauche, arguably most storied chronograph architecture of all time. The fact that this ébauche has been to the moon and inside of a 5970 defies belief.

There’s just so much lore here, added to by the fact that we still don’t know where the actual 105.012 Moonwatch that Buzz wore in 1969 is. Famously, on its way to the Smithsonian, it disappeared. Did Buzz keep it secretly? Is it floating around behind closed doors? Does Bezos own it (a common rumor)? There is so much intrigue to just that mystery even apart from the moon landing that it makes the entire reference more interesting. To me, Paul Newman is damn cool, but he’s not Armstrong cool, at least in my book. The 105.012 is just down to business, no frills or art deco fonts. And that’s the whole charm, it’s almost German in philosophy. It is a beautiful vintage chronograph at home in any room of collectors or enthusiasts, no matter how serious. It’s not just timeless, but classless. And gorgeous enough to make just about anybody vintage-curious.

This example dates to the very end of -65 production, its papers show delivery to German and production in March 3 of 67. The bezel is lovely too, just the lightest patina. It comes on a 1039 dating to 67 with 516 end links. It’s all lovely, from a well-regarded Omega-centered collector.