The Overseas Perpetual Calendar is the culmination of two distinct, prominent lineages within the world's oldest continuously operating watch manufacturer, Vacheron Constantin. The Overseas line, released in 1996 with clear influence from VC’s 222, has become a foundation of the brand, debuting numerous complications within a sporting design. This ref. 4300V/120R-B642 is the first skeletonized Overseas Perpetual Calendar, drawing on VC's long history of ultra-thin QP development and finishing ability. The watch proved so thoroughly refined that it won the Calendar and Astronomy Watch Prize at GPHG in the year of its debut. The Overseas’ aesthetic elegance is undeniable, but the story of this piece is its calibre, the ultimate evolution of the 1120 QP first utilized in VC’s ref. 43031, here reborn, refined, and skeletonized into something of an artwork.
In the 1980s ultra-thin perpetual calendars became the counterpoint to the quartz movement, saving traditional watchmaking by maintaining and showcasing the skillset of high watchmaking to recapture the hearts of buyers. The ultra-thin perpetual calendars VC produced during this period, ref.s 43031 and 43032 both using calibre 1120 QP, were so successful that they were in production for 23 years.
During that tenure, the Overseas line blossomed out of the 222 in design, featuring an angular case, integrated bracelet, and Girard Perragaux 3100 ébauche. The second generation was introduced in 2004 with this bracelet motif and a JLC 889 ébauche. In 2016, the third generation of the model saw the release of an Overseas Perpetual Calendar, bringing back the 1120 calibre utilized in 43031. In fact, the roots of the movement run deeper as the 222 was powered by a JLC 920 ébauche also. The injection of the Perpetual Calendar complication in the Overseas range was a bridge between these two distinct branches of Vacheron Constantin’s heritage. That marriage made high complication sporting for the first time, within the previously utilitarian Overseas line. Four years later, this Perpetual Calendar Skeleton was offered, a capstone reference to generations of refinement.
The 1120 QP is a JLC 920 ébauche, with Vacheron Constantin's own calendar works. VC are the last of the Holy Trinity to keep the legacy of the JLC 920 alive. In the words of Walt Odets, 'Inarguably, this caliber (920) is among the most beautiful wristwatch movements ever produced.' This 1120 QPSP carries that beautiful ultra-thin architecture proudly, on full display. The skeletonization is all-encompassing, set below a sapphire dial with translucent moonphase. The base plate, bridges, barrel, wheels, and rotor have all been meticulously skeletonized and finished by hand; not left bare but then adorned with beautiful anglage in a style which celebrates inner angles. The caseback proudly displays a well-earned Geneva Seal. The rotor’s Beryllium ring sits atop 4 ruby bearings that hold it in place. These allow for an extreme reduction in thickness without contacting the bridges beneath, allowing the original calibre 1121 to be the thinnest automatic movement within the Holy Trinity at the time of its release. The level of complication and 8.1mm overall thinness is a staggering feat to hold, particularly as it is accomplished without compromising the beauty of the 920 architecture.
The design packaging this masterpiece is Overseas in body, 43032 in soul. The dial features the same basic layout as the 43032, with a month subdial at 12 that revolves fully once every 4 years. Taking the attention to detail on a different plane than their competitors, VC engraved constellations on the moonphase disc with hand painted stars around the solid gold moons. Its case sports a Maltese cross motif throughout. The integrated bracelet's sharply finished mirrored inner angles are polished by hand and perfect, as are the bevels that integrate through the case. Its angular, almost aggressive design counters the inherent elegance of its outrageously thin case, with a refined and masculine-feeling overall impression.
The Overseas Perpetual Calendar arrived to the market some time behind the Royal Oak QP. Yet, it debuted with such an impressive refinement that it has quickly become the halo product of VC's entire catalogue. Vacheron Constantin move slowly, but with authority. This Perpetual Calendar Skeleton takes that success and celebrates with a peerless level of hand-finishing and attention to detail. It is the sovereign king of all Overseas and showcase of Vacheron Constantin's utmost ability in complication, all built upon the foundational calibre which saved the brand, and complicated watchmaking, in the early 1980s.
