In vintage Aquanaut, tritium dials and the warm patina they take on over time is often highly desired. Patek Philippe only used tritium from the first ref. 5060 in 1997 until roughly 2004, meaning that it only appears in 3 mechanical references. This 5066A, and vintage Aquanaut more broadly, sings in the modern era of casual luxury. Patek Philippe designed the Aquanaut to appeal to a younger audience, embracing sportiness and defying convention as their first watch designed ground-up to be worn on a rubber strap. The Nautilus was steel luxury, but the Aquanaut was for living with, paired back and adaptable, but still refined. And this one is coming to market today for the first time, in incredible condition.
The first Aquanaut was introduced in 1997 in ref. 5060, repurposing Genta's Nautilus but in a new lens and at 36.5mm. The sportier design aimed to capture a youthful energy. But in truth, the originally limited production went mostly to established clients of the brand. Never confirmed, it is rumored that the model was first commissioned from high level military officers to Stern, supposedly inspiring both the utilitarian design and 'grenade' pattern adorning the dial and strap. The rubber strap took one full year of development, comprising twenty materials in its composite and fully resistant to salt water, UV deterioration, and bacteria. One short year later, the Aquanaut line expanded into three references all heavily collected today: the practical 5064 at 34mm in quartz, the 'Jumbo' 5065 at 38mm, and this 5066, an evolution of the original size but now with a display caseback.
That back reveals the automatic calibre 330 SC with its 29 jewels, floating plates finished with Côtes de Genève, Gyromax balance adjusted in 5 positions, and a solid gold rotor engraved with the Calatrava cross. It is fittingly utilitarian, but still beautiful enough to reward close study and proudly displays a Geneva Seal.
The 5066 and 5065 are considered the archetypal neo-vintage Aquanauts, produced from '98 until '06. Their widespread success saw the introduction of different metals and distinct bracelet options. Both spanned the introduction in tritium to this superluminova. And both are, today, a gateway drug for many traditionally vintage sport watch collectors to enter the Patek Philippe world in an approachable way. This has led the Aquanaut on a crash-course with pop culture through famous owners like Mayer, McCartney, Tom Holland, Sylvester Stallone, and many, many others. It is the Patek Philippe you can wear to the Met Gala or In-N-Out with equanimity. The Aquanaut is casual luxury, and it's here to stay.
