Patek Philippe's ref. 50503 is one of the brand's lesser discussed, lesser hyped, more quirky, and more beautiful neo-vintage offerings. Yes, this watch was introduced in 2001 and made until '09, despite leaning very hard into mid-century design cues. It's what's known as the Officer's Calatrava, a style defined by soldered straight lugs, a minimal dial with minimal complication, screw-bar lugs, onion crown, and the pièce de résistance hinged caseback. Executed here in rose gold with Breguet hands and numerals, it is a gorgeous 36mm anachronism.
Patek Philippe made what is the definitive Officer's watch to celebrate their 150th in 1989, the limited ref. 3960. The model was a total success and prized among collectors, which lead Patek Philippe to bring the model into mainstream production in the 5022 (time only) and this 5053 (date). It was replaced by the 5153 which sported a half-guilloché dial with dauphine hands that many found a bit ungainly in such an elegant case.
The drama of a hinged caseback cannot be oversold, particularly when the calibre lurking beneath is the 315 SC, a 3.2mm thin 30 jewel automatic, with a free sprung Gyromax balance and Geneva Seal finishing standard. Just look at the solid gold rotor, which combines an engraved cross, radial Côtes de Genève, thick anglage, and perlage on the inner mount. Quality is palpable even in just the firmness with which the caseback clicks shut. Despite the back, the total case is just 9mm thin and wears as such.
The 5053’s charm is its understatement. It wears like any Calatrava in that it suits just about all attire, is perfectly proportioned, and can only be properly appreciated intimately. Yet, in the Officer's Calatrava there's this lovely contrast between modern production with modern quality against such an early/mid-century aesthetic. If you love a well-made object with a strong visual link to immense history, namely trench watches and combat in both World Wars, it would be hard to best. Or, more simply, if your idea of a properly cut suit is more Peaky Blinders than James Bond, this is your Calatrava.
