Few independents have an eye for proportion or detail like Naoya Hida. Hida will be unknown to many, a nascent Japanese watchmaker who goes about things quite differently. This is a classic design, executed with modern technique. Hida previously held notable roles at JLC, VC, Breguet, and is widely credited with popularizing FP Journe in Japan, but only started his eponymous brand in '18 with one aim: to create his own ideal wristwatch. Inspired by classic Calatravas and pocket watches, think of it as classic Patek 96, reinterpreted to be contemporary through a distinctly Japanese lens. Hida only makes 15-20 Type 1 watches per year and proudly records yearly production on his site. And this is the second Type 1D ever made, case 002.
The soul of the Type 1D begins in its dial, an unusually thick piece of solid German silver. The dial is polished to a mirror finish then media blasted lightly, leaving texture and mirror gloss all mixed in. Then each Breguet numeral is engraved, freehand, by one man (which is why the silver dial blank has to be unusually thick). That is an art form in itself and you'll see slight variations across a range of Type 1s. The numerals are then filled in urushi lacquer, a prized dark gloss finish made from tree sap with 7000 years of Japanese history behind it. If that weren't enough, the minute and petite seconds tracks are machined separately, brushed, and applied. And the heat blued hands are sculpturally bulbous, mirrored and blued by hand. Hida demonstrates exceptional ability to perceive proportion between elements and execute in nuance.
The 37mm case is CNC machined by an aerospace manufacture, then hand finished with lovely touches like a mirror polish concave bezel. This Type 1D has slightly thinner lugs than the 1B that came first. The calibre is a manual 3019SS, derived from a Valjoux 7750 for three reasons. Hida wanted a movement to totally fill the 37mm case and this does. Second, he needed running seconds at 9 for his dream design to come to life. This was the only choice. Lastly, the 7750 has a very mechanical, chunky winding feel which is a bit vintage and Hida wanted that increased mechanical tactility every time you interact with your watch.
Some have criticized Hida's use of a Valjoux in his designs. But Rexhep Rexhepi also started practicing watchmaking in finishing and altering Valjoux calibres, and it's not like anyone would say no to one of his early watches today. This is not to equate the two, merely point out that every journey begins with the first steps. These are the auspicious early years of a very interesting watchmaker who enjoys taking his time. A watchmaker for whom every detail matters monumentally (both of which are why you'd have to wait many years for one new today). That philosophy is not for everyone, but it creates a very beautiful object at its end.
