This is H. Moser seen through a different lens, not a dive watch but very sporting. This Pioneer Centre Seconds Rotating Bezel was the first Moser ever released on a steel bracelet. Combined with the light grey, almost ghosted bezel aesthetic, it is a watch which blurs the line between modern fine independent watchmaking and traditional tool watch aesthetic.
The Rotating Bezel or 'RB' Pioneer Centre seconds came about after Moser brought a single prototype on bracelet to a trade show, with a blue dial. The demand was so large that one retailer began taking pre-orders, without Moser's knowledge. The rest is history and a limited edition of just 50 examples in the steel ref. 3200-1204 shown here followed to meet interest, all spoken for before announcement and never advertised. The case design was later made more known after a collaboration with Collective which was covered on Hodinkee.
The 'Funky Blue' dial is fumé, a traditional smoke finish, and never pauses from reacting to movement or light. Its brushed 42.5mm case wears more reasonably than the headline would suggest due to lugs which aggressively wrap down to meet an already angled bracelet. The distinct case side recesses remind that Moser machine but then hand finish many case elements. That bracelet is gorgeous, Germanic tolerances with a push-button micro-adjust in the clasp. Flip it over and an exhibition back reveals the HMC 200, Moser's own calibre where each component really is made under one roof.
This is a watch no one really expected from H. Moser, the trademark design cues are evident and yet it is very much its own thing. It's not a true dive watch, but with 120m water resistance and a blindingly luminous dial and bezel, it's just fine for all summer activities short of saturation diving. It's still of pure Moser craftsmanship, but made to be practical, traveled with, swam with, and lived in. This is a very lighthearted and beautiful independent sports watch which isn't participating in the spec sheet one-upmanship. Moser have always leaned into doing things their own way and largely because of that attitude, this RB finds itself entirely in a class of one.
