The 62GS is arguably Grand Seiko’s most historically significant model, save perhaps the 44GS or First 3180. Not only was it the first self-wound Grand Seiko ever, but its case also dramatically expanded the vocabulary of Taro Tanaka’s ‘Grammar of Design’. In fact, we would dare say there isn’t a single case out there which wears remotely like this with the flared faceted lug profile. When the 62GS turned 55 in 2015, this was how Grand Seiko chose to celebrate: a 700 example LE Hi-Beat with a dial that is so sensitive to light that it could equally be described as black, chocolate, or sparkling burgundy in direct sun.
That dial tone, and the perfection of its Zaratsu furniture, needs to be seen to be truly understood. But, the appeal of this era of Grand Seiko can be described. The SBGH039 was created in 2014 and shown Baselworld 2015. This was before Grand Seiko was the widely-understood and appreciated monolith they are today, it was an insider’s watch that was pre big Hodinkee, pre most of watch-Instagram. This is what we call the double signed era of Grand Seiko, after the birth of the modern Grand Seiko reference system, but before dials became signed with Grand Seiko alone at 12. There are many overlooked gems from this time, the SBGH039 very much included. The 40mm steel case differs from the original in size and the fact that crown is at 3, though still recessed. But it retains the box-shaped crystal (now in sapphire), lack of bezel, and lug shape. All the angles that lug profile moves through, including the tiny inner angle where the lug drops in toward its center, are Zaratsu polished and mirror-like.
Its 9S85 Hi-Beat runs at a frantic 36000 vph and was assembled at Grand Seiko’s Shizukuishi studio in Moroika. That hyperactive balance allows the watch to be regulated to an impressive -3 to +5 second per day. A movement of this specification requires greater energy demand, which makes its 55-hour power reserve quite impressive. Here’s an engineering detail I adore as an example of the engineering required here: the pallet lever and escape wheel are openworked using MEMs electroforming lithography, an adaptation of a system made to produce semi conductors. This lessens their overall mass and helps reduce the energy demand of its single mainspring barrel. That is attention to detail, a theme that runs overflowing in every element of this watch. The SBGH039 is one of many Grand Seiko from this era that supports a view we hold firmly: interesting, non-mainstream watches are still out there waiting to reward those who study them closely.
