Chronomètre Artisans, Rose Gold

Simon Brette’s Chronomètre Artisans Rose is a contemporary independent work preserving traditional artisan handcraft. Born in the Auvergne and formally trained in Neuchâtel, Brette cut his teeth at Chronode under Jean-François Mojon before moving through roles at MCT and MB&F. That technical apprenticeship and project-level experience fed straight into the aesthetic and mechanical ambitions of his own brand. Brette launched his own work to spotlight high-level hand finishing and the often invisible specialists who make high watchmaking sing in the landmark Chronomètre Artisans. In 2020, against a backdrop of independent watches hitting new highs at auction, Brette noted many individual artists on the verge of bankruptcy. Uniting them under this project earned him the Revelation Prize at the 2023 Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève, launching him to the forefront of his peers. This Chronomètre Artisans Rose debuted in 2024, the first true precious metal offering following Zirconium and Titanium. Landing on a far warmer aesthetic, the watch is defined by its obsessively skilled attention to detail.

This partially opened dial overwhelmingly commands the eye, revealing both keyless works in black polish and third/fourth wheels—with subsidiary seconds at 9:15 on a sapphire track. Those with keen eyes will note the beveling on the inside of each wheel is concave, meeting in a concave inner angle. This was extremely difficult to accomplish. The dial’s conically-mirrored bridges and rose wheels stand out against the black dial. And yet, it is the dial’s unopened sections which most draws the eye. A bastion of traditional technique, these flat surfaces are finished in a tremblage-style named ‘Battle’. This is a hand-hammered finish with texture applied in multiple dimensions. Each dial is executed by Yasmina Anti by hand, taking almost a week of work. Every tiny crater is cut by hand, and there are hundreds of thousands. This pattern is a hybrid of both previous patterns, using the techniques from both the prior 'Dragon Scale' and 'Tiger Claw' layered upon each other. The handset was partially inspired by Derek Pratt’s Obersavtory work. Aside from the remarkable skill, black dial of the rose simply aids legibility to what is a visually-rich dial.  

The manual calibre of the Chronomètre Artisans is less notable for a headline complication than a bespoke architecture borrowed from observatory chronometers with immense time investment on finishing. Designed as a dual-mainspring for 72 hours of reserve, accuracy is the focus. All steel parts near the balance are of Phynox, a non-magnetic alloy. The ratchet and crown wheels hold hand-polished vertical and internal ‘wolfs teeth’ gearing for an incredibly tactile experience, largely done by Mac Bolis and Alyna Rouelle. 

Perhaps most representative of the level of finishing in the Chronomètre Artisans are the screws used. Each is a unique concave shape in mirror-polish. Initially executed by Anton Peterson (who was prior on the verge of shuttering his business, prior work includes Greubel Forsey’s Handmade 1), it was first deemed impossible. After developing a new technique, the two found a way to mirror polish a depression or bowl shape. It takes a full hour per screw. Polishing alone the screws of this calibre takes over a full day. That concave motif is reflected in the mainspring wheels, concave chatons, and the inner beveling on the going train.  

Further, the balance bridge is traditional rounded Bercé, flying over a small C-shaped bridge which supports the escapement. Its escape wheel is black polished, the crown wheel has winding click springs which resemble sonneries, and even the concave chatons are finished by hand. The work is too exhaustive to innumerate in this overview, but sums to one of the most beautifully-finished and thought-through calibres which has ever been made. 

Its case is 39mm and just 10mm high, with an acute sense of history and aesthetic. Flanks are satin, separated by distinct concave polished bevels which echo the finishing motifs of the movement. The crown supports this motif also, with a mirrored concave end. Interestingly, the flank at 9 features an inlaid dovetail joint logo inlaid, a nod to Simon Brette’s father who was a skilled carpenter who taught him the joy, persistence, and fulfillment in skilled work. 

The Chronomètre Artisans is a masterful effort, uniting many individually skilled artisans whose work might otherwise have not survived. However, it is the cohesiveness of vision, immense skill, and attention to every minute detail which can’t help but impress most. More than the sum of its parts in multiple dimensions, the Chronomètre Artisans is not just a beautifully-crafted independent watch, though it certainly is that. It is a groundswell, proving that good intentions, the energy of independence, and an audacious goal can pull the very best out of Switzerland. Just 12 Simon Brette watches are made yearly, each a celebration of the small artisans often overlooked.

This Chronomètre Artisans presents in exceptional overall condition. Its case bears virtually no signs of wear, only the very lightest indications of having ever been worn. It comes with its original full set.

This example is modelled on an average-sized 7-inch wrist.