Tropical 1680 Rolex Red Submariner

Red Submariners are as varied and characterful as owners who wore them. We’re in the height of Watches & Wonders currently and while there are some marvelous things which debuted, the vast majority of them share one flaw. Cases are mirror finished, dials are flat Luminova, and bezels are ceramic these days. These are choices that are not made with eternity in mind. The vast majority are not going to age gracefully. Certainly, not as gracefully as this ’68 Red Sub, which might be the only object in the universe to age more gracefully than Brad Pritt.

The 1680 was not Rolex’s first Sub with a red line of text (that was probably the 6536/8), but it was the most widely-distributed watch to do so. It was, however, definitively Rolex’s first Sub to introduce a date complication to the Sub line, which was distinct amongst its competitors. Ever curious where the famed cyclops crystal was popularized? Look no further. It is also the only date Sub with an acrylic ‘top hat’ crystal. Granted, these are all highly-nuanced details only collectors discuss. But, for those who care about details, the reference holds immense charm. The red line of text was only available for the first half of 1680 production. Some collectors believe this was a nod from Rolex toward the very early single red 1665s, others say that’s nonsense. This example is a Mark 3 dial, characterized by its meters first depth rating. That’s not the character of this particular one though.

This example is a perfectly tropical dial, which gives the whole thing a soul in the way only vintage watches can. And it’s meters first. And the bezel has ghosted nicely. It you’re a Rolex guy, you’re going, ‘tick, tick, and tick’. The world needs more things that get better with age. Leather boots, aluminum gear knobs, Kuroki, Scotch, they have the right idea. This does too. One of the greatest strengths of watches is their ability to last for eternity, the opposite of an iPhone. Lean into it with four-digit. So yes, technically it is a fault. But, as developers would frame it and to me personally, it’s a feature. 

This example looks aesthetically lovely. It should be noted that the case is recut, and that is clearly and properly noted in listing. It's also valued appropriately. The dial is beautiful with original tritium in a warm golden tan. It comes on a 93150 with little stretch. All from a well-regarded Miami retailer.