403.035 A. Lange & Söhne Datograph, Wellendorff Bracelet

A bracelet should never be an afterthought, but Wellendorff Lange is the opposite. While a First Generation Datograph is spectacular and deeply significant in its own right, it’s hard for any Wellendorff bracelet to not steal the show. This Datograph was sold by Wempe in 2001, two years after release. However, very few have even been seen paired with the addition of what we see here. What is, indisputably, the world’s best watch bracelet: solid platinum by Wellendorff.

Development of the Datograph began right from the start of the brand’s rebirth. Led by Reinhard Meis, Annegret Fleischer, and Jens Schneider, a group of engineers sought to create one of the most technically advanced, breathtaking, and distinctly Saxon chronographs. The dial had been designed by Blümlein and Meis directly first, so the calibre had to be reverse-engineered to meet that dial design. This required 5 years of development. 

The result was a column wheel, lateral clutch, flyback chronograph with oversized date (inspired by the Semper Opera House) that is in its own class. Calibre L951.1 and its 504 components were designed ground-up with aesthetic beauty in mind, featuring immense depth and unrivaled traditional German finishing. Details were its focus. Consider the minute counter, whose hand jumps at each minute instead of slowly scrolling. This was incredibly difficult to engineer but also far more satisfying. It is equal parts sculptural and functional. In fact, in development, its project was interally dubbed ‘The Cathedral’ for its towering, layered architecture. This example is a meter dial also, which preceeded the later ‘meters’ convention.

A separate 403.035 from Exclusives earlier this year, because it's impossible to highlight a Datograph and not show off the L951.1. 

Based in Pforzheim, Germany, Wellendorff put the finishing touches on this example. In period, the platinum bracelet as an option cost as much as the watch itself. That’s partly the material cost, and partly Wellendorff’s expertise making intricate precious metal bracelets since 1893. Since introduction with the earliest days of Lange, many of these bracelets have become even more valuable than the watches they secure. It is impossible to not admire their work all these years later.

This example is excellent in case condition. From what's visible it's likely unrestored with only light surface wear. It should be noted that without an original purchase receipt, it's impossible to prove a Wellendorff as being born with any given watch. Only the soldered variations changed reference number. And the bracelets do trade independently. However, regardless of where this bracelet was born and where it appears, it has immense value. This example comes with paperwork noting sale from Wempe in 2001, from a well-regarded Dutch retailer.