3310 Breguet Classique Perpetual Calendar

Classique Breguet is increasingly a category its own today. Few collections from any manufacture are capable of rivaling the Classique’s height of restrained design sense, traditional finishing, impressive watchmaking, or value. Most will be aware by now that this accomplished range was spearheaded by a young Daniel Roth. Directly after joining the Chaumet brothers in 1973, Roth set about bringing a perpetual calendar back to Breguet.

Perpetual calendars in 1970 were a niche interest and still quite uncommon, certainly nothing like as proliferated as they are today. Perpetual calendars were a last bastion of the highest order watchmaking when quartz crystals were causing chaos. Roth wisely recognized this early, and in the mid 70s Breguet debuted the 3050, a wristwatch with strong parallels to a perpetual calendar pocket watch Roth created in school. In 1986, that uncommon reference was replaced with this 3310. The main distinction between that early effort and this 3310 is the additional power reserve indication. What remained were the highly varied guilloché styles in different areas of the solid gold dial, 36mm slim coin-edge case, and automatic calibre 502 base.

Breguet’s director at the time, Francois Bodet, was quoted as saying that only 2 or 3 perpetual calendars left the maison’s doors each year, as they required about thirty distinct watchmaking professions to create a single watch. Production ceased around the year 2000, which would place total production around 42 examples although that figure seems quite tiny as is very much an estimate. As if collectability weren’t already deserved for its sheer watchmaking, rarity is certainly in this reference’s favor. This intensive watchmaking, Breguet’s name and history, an independent legend overseeing the effort . . .all for less than a ceramic Daytona will trade hands for today.

This example sports the lightest of patina beginning to develop. Its case shows signs of delicate use, worn carefully but worn. The lugs are unpolished as far as my eye can discern. Seller notes that the moon disc is developing patina and there is a tiny mark between T & F on the day subdial. A spectacular watch and one not likely to replicated in the market for some time, particularly in white gold. I almost always see these in yellow gold. It comes with a full set from a well-regarded London retailer.

Find this 3310 here from Watch Brothers London for 20850 GBP.