Chopard LUC 1860 LE 100

It is possible for something to be expensive and massively undervalued. Much in the way that collectors have recently begun to acknowledge the exceptional watchmaking in early CPCP pieces, a subculture is forming around LUC. Chopard may be mostly known for sponsoring the Mille Miglia (now a cocaine and Instagram model heavy tour of Italy for 1% of 1%), but they once held higher aspiration.

LUC—so named for the initials of founder Louis-Ulysse Chopard—was an attempt to bring the brand back into the good graces of those who take watchmaking seriously. The brand hired in Mr. Parmigiani and gave him years to develop a high-end movement signature to their house. The result was one of the purest and finest movement designs of the decade, the cal 1.96 micro rotor with a 70-hour reserve from two mainspring barrels. I’d expect no less from the man at this point. Finishing levels were something to behold, not to mention COSC certification and the Geneva Seal as redundant accolades.

That incredible movement was dressed in a similarly exceptional and restrained series of designs. The dial was produced by Metalem, who also produces dials for Dufour’s Simplicity. High pedigree is an understatement. The piece we see today features a central guilloché and is made entirely in gold. The whole package is housed in a graceful 37mm white gold case with short-er, tapering lugs. Dress watch selection could not come better advised.

This example shows light wear and minor surface marks. The dial, crystal, and back seem untouched. It comes with a full set circa 2000s from a very well established retailer.

Find this LUC 1860 here from S. Song for 18000 USD.