FP Journe Chronomètre Bleu

In the same way that the Oysterquartz is Rolex on the back foot under a forcing function to become inventive, the Chronomètre Bleu represents FP Journe’s best ability under pressure. This context still is not talked about enough. It was conceived in the midst of the 2008 financial meltdown. Precious metal values were skyrocketing. Demand was all but nonexistent. No one was thinking about supporting independent watchmaking, in fact it wasn’t even called that back then. FP Journe was just a small boutique watchmaker with an uncertain future and a less safe purchase than, say, an AP, for instance. Times were hard, and necessity proved a mother of invention.

Rather than create high complication in platinum, FP Journe built something unique and accessible. Tantalum was chosen because it was cheap, no one else dared machine it, and has a look unlike anything. It gums up machines, generally eats tools, and is flammable enough to combust in machining. Tantalum is roughly twice as hard as gold and twice as strong as steel. Machining this case and particularly the crown is said to have required great trial and error. Journe opted for the more challenging polished finish rather than the matte or brushed we see on tantalum from all other marques. At 39mm, even the size doesn’t fit the traditional FPJ mould.

Then there’s the dial: multiple layers of blue lacquer, hand polished. It’s impossible to photograph accurately. With reflections emanating down and a tone that can appear black or chrome sky blue. Further, it breaks from traditional Journe austerity with a petite seconds at 7:30, where the numerals nearest to its petite seconds gracefully shrink down to provide visual balance. This allows the numerals to be printed full and not cut off around the seconds opening, as many others do, a rare touch of playfulness from François-Paul.

This is all not even to mention the calibre 1304 with dual mainspring barrels for more even torque and hewn almost entirely of pink gold. The Chronomètre Bleu has a unique finish compared to everything else in the catalogue, with a base plate grain d’orge guilloché. And the hidden gear train, allowing a ton of open space. The details here are based in immense time investment on handcraft. This is a surprisingly different watch to a CS, in history and in wearing. As FPJ has risen, the CB has risen threefold. The CB is genius, defiance, and adaptability in the face of adversity. And because of that, the simplest offering of early FPJ has become one of the most significant.

This example looks fantastic. The case is very full with light surface wear and deep engaavrings. The dial shows no marks. It comes from a well-regarded Genevan retailer.