Hinged Caseback Chopard LUC 16/1860/1

This is a rare bird, even though at first glance it appears to be your average 16/1860. This is a first edition 16/1860/1, but the first of the first. It’s not often discussed, but the first 100 examples of the 16/1860, regardless of case metal, were made numbered in series with a hinged or ‘hunter’ caseback. Yes, the salmon dial is incredibly attractive. And you can try and finagle your way into the tourbillon. But for outright significance, these first 100 examples are it. Meet the closed and open happy hybrid, first of the breed 16/1860. On a value basis, this is an unbeatable three-hander.

It would be rude at this point to not give quick primer on the watch itself. Without exaggeration, this is the piece that saved Chopard and their independence. LUC’s calibre 1.96—LUC so named for the initials of founder Louis-Ulysse Chopard—was an attempt to bring the manufacture, who had strayed a bit, back into the good graces of those who take watchmaking very seriously. The brand hired in Mr. Parmigiani and gave him years and near-infinite means to develop a high-end movement signature to their house. Four years and twenty prototypes later, result was one of the purest and finest automatic movement designs of the decade: the cal 1.96 micro rotor with a 70-hour reserve from two mainspring barrels. It sported a Geneva Seal, it had the best micro-rotor movement a time-only watch had ever seen, and a guilloché metalem dial. And yes, Chopard utilized Metalem before Dufour.

This first series of calibre 1.96 was produced from 1997 until 2002, where the 16/1860/2 took over. Platinum salmon dial, in any series, leads the way to collectability. However, the /1 with the hunter back has its own devout following. Interestingly, some of these inner hinged backs had perlage and some did not. There is a drama to seeing your 1.96 reflected in gold. While these 100 first ‘/1’ examples were limited, Chopard had intended to produce 1860 examples in each metal of the /2 (both are still technically a ‘first series’, which gets confusing). On good local intel, word has it Chopard produced fewer than 300 /2 in each metal. It is a developing modern classic, with just about everything one could want in a slightly formal time-only wristwatch. Think of it as a Dufour with a date for mere mortals, still independent and made in the spirit of youth’s blind ambition.

This example appears lovely, with a full case and light, appropriate wear commensurate with age. The hinged caseback can be a little faulty, this one is great. It comes with its box and original folding clasp, but no papers.