The Perpetual Calendar Chronograph is a grand complication first created by Patek Philippe and Patek Philippe still dominate the category today. No complication is so deeply connected to the core of Patek Philippe, the Perpetual Calendar Chronograph and Patek Philippe are synonymous. In 2011, this ref. 5270 took the throne previously occupied by the 5970. The 5270 was Patek Philippe's first entirely in-house designed, manufactured, and finished Perpetual Calendar Chronograph movement, calibre 29‑535 PS Q, marking a significant new chapter and end of the Lemania ébauches. The 5270 is the culmination of decades of learning in movement manufacture, a showcase of Patek Philippe watchmaking and design mastery.
The very first Perpetual Calendar Chronograph was released in 1941, reference 1518. This wartime innovation was not only well ahead of its time, it was built to last far beyond its time. From 1941 until today, the Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Chronograph, non-split, has evolved through just five main circular references. In order, they are 1518, 2499, 3970, 5970, and this 5270. More importantly, the 1518 marked the start of serially produced complicated calibres at Patek Philippe. That prowess is the foundation their watchmaking has built around today. 80 years later, in 2011, the 5270 introduced the first entirely Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Chronograph the world has seen.
The 456-component calibre 29‑535 PS Q which resulted is optimized for thinness and beauty. It uses a traditional column-wheel architecture, but with a state of the art lateral clutch for aesthetic consideration. The calibre incorporates six patents to virtually eliminate any lateral clutch efficiency issues. Highlights include an optimized tooth profile, functional column wheel cap controlling drive wheel mesh depth, slotted minute cam, and synchronized clutch/blocking levers. All this effort was made purely to make the chronograph more beautiful to observe. The chronograph includes a new jumping minute counter, where as soon as the chronograph crosses 60 seconds, the minute counter jumps to 1 instead of lazily scrolling. Above the chronograph lies an integrated 182 component perpetual calendar. Truly hand finished bevels adorn every bridge, with Geneva striping, black polish, perlage, and ample depth.
The dial of the 5270 displays a wealth of information in as clear a manner possible. The dial main is very delicately grained, with subdials radially grained. This pink gold example features a warm silver dial with pink gold indices. The 5270 dial has evolved considerably over production, beginning with no tachymetre, then a tachymetre scale which has come to be known as 'the chin', finally landing on this simplified design with an intersecting scale at the bottom of the date track. The small apertures are for AM/PM and leap year indication. These were both inspired by the historic ref. 3450. The two calendar apertures above the Patek Philippe signature, a hallmark of the Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Chronograph, have increased in size. This proportional increase leans into the model's most recognizable feature and accentuates it. The 5270 is proportionally more contemporary than anything before. Compared to its predecessor it is 1mm larger but an impressive .6mm thinner, resulting in an overall flatter appearance. The flared, stepped lug profile recalls the 2499, while adding its own new sculptural character. Additionally, its lugs are more aggressively angled downward than the 5970 case, resulting in a more sympathetic, sporting feel on wrist. It is imposing yet elegant, the sort of presence that Patek Philippe excel at like none other.
The 5270 is a deeply significant step toward complete autonomy for Patek Philippe. Its design is respectful of its ancestry, but with a contemporary character. The reference has not had the time since 2011 to be appreciated as legendary in the same way that the earlier preceding references are, that verdict is still in progress. Yet, in almost all tangible aspects, the 5270 represents significant advancement in design and mechanics. History will very likely find the 5270 a very important first step toward more ingenious and beautifully designed calibres, freed of Lemania ébauche constraints. The 5270 offers a kind of imposing beauty, masterfully executed. It is the very best of Patek Philippe watchmaking today: a watch which stands outside of time or trends, able to measure all the various increments of time we find useful, including discreet stops, and all with a calibre capable of stopping time should you choose to indulge in viewing it.
