Tritium Dial 5065J Patek Philippe Aquanaut

Richard Mille did not invent casual haute horlogerie, but the 90s did. The dot-com bubble millionaires were of a different ilk to pre-quartz-crisis wealth. So Patek Philippe approached the problem with typical-of-era obsessive over-engineering and thought. In the process, they accidentally made the watch world’s ultimate summer watch. The Aquanaut strap took one full year of development, comprising twenty materials in its composite and fully resistant to salt water, UV deterioration, and bacteria. The comfort, casual luxury attitude, and rugged, almost-Genta looks made it an instant hit. But the originals just hit harder than what’s in production today, particularly this 5065J which carries on an interesting thread from the strange 5060S, which some call the Pre-Aquanaut.

The first Aquanaut was introduced in 1996 in ref. 5060A, repurposing Genta’s Nautilus but in a new lens and at 36.5mm. The sporting design aimed to capture a youthful gaze, though some say it was made grenade-like to suit a request from a specific military General. Thierry Stern reinforces the mystery, designing ‘something wearable, not for an evening reception, but for action. It was to be given to the best officers in the army, so the design needed to remind you of something military.’ In truth, the originally limited production went mostly to usual established clients of the brand. That’s the usual story, but no one actually knows if the 5060A or 5060S debuted first. The 5060S was a gold Aquanaut case with Roman numerals (usually) on leather, which was never branded Aquanaut but Nautilus. The chronology is muddy. But the OG not-actually-called Aquanaut may have been 18k.

The next generation, one short year later, included this ‘Jumbo case, still just 38mm but with a display back, ref. 5065. The 5065 spanned the transition from tritium to Luminova, collectors tend to prefer the warmth from the early tritium examples. Patek Philippe only used tritium from the first ref. 5060 in 1997 until roughly 2004, meaning that it only appears in 3 mechanical references for 5 years. The 5065J is rarer than you’d think in tritium too, maybe even on par with 5060A production. They’re the archetypal neo-vintage feel: where it’s at in Aquanaut collecting. The Aquanaut has only grown in popularity and tracked with Patek Philippe catalogue expansion: there’s now a minute repeater. But the original 90s Patek Philippe philosophy, unlike 90s AP with their Offshores, was that less is more. Less is still more here, it’s still the casual summer watch you can swim in with no Travel Time or Annual Calendar. It’s just also gold.

This example appears in great overall condition, case and dial. The hands on these were often swapped for Luminova at service, originals remain here. It comes with its full set including certificate of origin and that lovely Grenade box, from a well-regarded London retailer.